Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right now I have an Apexi slide adjustable BOV to atmo with an RB25/30 with a GT3076R.

It sounded better before with the old high flow on medium orifice.

There was a relatively loud clean flutter that would growl deep and spook dogs.

Now with the 3076 it is set on large orifice and doesn't flutter as nice and is also really F%$#@%^loud on high boost.

When it releases the pssshhht, it's like someone is smashing a bottle right next to your head.

Now with the cops increasingly picking on us I wanna plumb back.

I don't think I can plumb back this BOV.

I've heard a few S15's getting around with a really cool high pitch flutter.

Not too loud, like a whistle lowering in pitch as it flutters.

Can anyone tell me which BOV's do this and can be plumbed.

I only track it once a year so ragged edge performance isn't a total requirement.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390514-best-sounding-bov/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is running your BOV from when the car was stock an option?

I still have my stock BOV and its plumbed back, but you can still hear it pretty easily through intake and pod filter etc.

no mate,

Front face plenum and after market cold air box

Not clear what you want to acheive.

You want a noisy bov

You want it plumbed in because of the cops?

The only police objection is the noise - a bov vents only air so its not an emissions issue.

What is important? Personally I like my bov to be completely silent.

Not clear what you want to acheive.

You want a noisy bov

You want it plumbed in because of the cops?

The only police objection is the noise - a bov vents only air so its not an emissions issue.

What is important? Personally I like my bov to be completely silent.

It is an emission issue, air escaping thats been metered = more fuel which means rich which means carbon. Well in NSW anyway its an actual fine not just defect. Not sure about vic

most bov have a soft or hard setting allowing for the sound to be adjusted like on the collar with the apexi, make sure you get a plumback.

i have to admit the apexi dual chamber would be one of the louder ones on the market. hks, sard or trust all have a unique sound.

Anyone that puts a BOV on for sound is just a plain f**king dickhead.

Dude,

I'm looking for a plumb back one that's quieter than what I have.

Whilst I'm at it I don't want to drive around in a farting horse.

Engine and exhaust notes are very important to some...

where do the GTR bovs sit in the engine bay?

I gather they just use a rubber hose to recirculate back, does it run under the engine or over or what?

Drivers side.

There is a plastic recirc pipe that goes under the radiator back to the intake side.

GTR BOV's are good for any application.

If you want less BOV noise, run an airbox.

Some people like BOVs, some dont. Some people like bling rims, others dont.

Just because you have a distaste towards BOVs, doesnt make this guy a dickhead.

OP, try a "dual port" design BOV. I have a Turbosmart dual port, one port is plumbed back, the other vents. I got a restrictor machined into the vented port to lessen the sound. You still get a nice sound (not overly loud, or stupid sounding), and because it recirculates to a degree, the "richness" on gear changes etc, is somewhat lessened. And, if you still have a AFM between filter and turbo, the flutter is there, but sounds low and sexy.

Not obnoxious like those "hectik bro's" in their "fully sick" VL's.

But, as i said, each to their own. Food for thought :)

Ty.

Just as illegal, yes. I agree with that definately.. I was talking in regards to the effect it has on tune/emission.

Agreed, a large portion of people buy because its marketed well. The other portion, know it does have *some* performance benefit.. Depending on the setup, of course.

Personally i have one because it decreases "flutter" coming from a system with no BOV. ie; that horrible "zuuuuu tututu" sound you get with most VL turbos. And because of the modification, it doesnt sound stupid either.

The flutter i talk about that i have, is actually the sound of the BOV fluctuating in response to the build-up of excess pressure in the intake tract.

Personally i dont like extremely loud "pssst" sounds..

Makes driving annoying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...