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"steam Pipe" Single Turbo Manifolds On Fleabay....anyone Know Anythging About This Supplier And Their Products?


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We will look into the low mount manifolds soon if there is demand to make them.

As for the new manifolds it will be another 6 - 8 weeks , As i will make them all in one go

All our manifolds with 38mm are in stock, i can change the pipe to suit 40, 44 , 50 mm for extra $110 au, $390 AU for the manifold modified + $70 Freight for Australia wide,

Will keep you guys posted!

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just want to point out that this weld while it looks nice and pretty is NOT a strong weld. theres a large amount of undercut on the edges. needs more filler wire as it loks like its just been fusioned together

any response to this Kam? im not a welder and i can already see that this is a weak join.

The welds are strong and over the time we have been making manifolds we have NEVER had one crack , And these manifolds are being used on Drift / Street / Drag cars. The picture of the weld showin was made for a show car to give it a cleaner look.

Now in regards to the wastegate port size every one is wanting larger diameter Wg port, Tonight i will be putting together a 50mm wastegate port / pipe for the 25det manifold we make for a client in AU i will have the manifold ready in the morning and will also have the collectors tidied up. We will offer you guys the pipe diameter you require for example you want it with a 38 / 40 / 44 / 50 / mm wastegate pipe i can have it done for you within a couple of days. We will not weld the flange for your wastegate as i don't have one of every model wastegate so you can have that done on your side any exhaust shop should should do it for $20 or so.

Pricing:

Rb26Det manifold Top mount with 38mm pipe + Flange + Collectors cleaned up $299 AU +$70 Freight Aus Wide

Rb20 / 25 Det manifold Top mount 40 / 44 / 50 / 60 mm pipe + Collectors cleaned up $399 + $70 Freight Aus Wide

Rb30 manifold top mount with 38mm pipe + Flange + Collectors cleaned up $299 AU +$70 Freight Aus Wide

Rb30 manifold Top mount 40 / 44 / 50 / 60 mm pipe + Collectors cleaned up $399 + $70 Freight Aus Wide

I will post up pictures tomorrow of the manifold when its done for you guys to look over and see your opinion's

Kam

Edited by Hybrid1310

i have no doubt that the welds on the rest are strong. but the one pictured is not. it has LESS material then what you started with with the parent material. I am a qualified welder and i know a weak weld when i see one. As i said. its a pretty weld not a strong one. The fact you did it for show for a customer makes me wonder if you know what your doing.

Thats 3mm wall pipe, with good penetration it will be plenty strong enough. Sure a little rod wouldn't have gone astray but look at the price.

Thats 3mm wall pipe, with good penetration it will be plenty strong enough. Sure a little rod wouldn't have gone astray but look at the price.

:thumbsup:

Appreciate what the welding gurus out there are saying, but there is very little undercut and the weld is a little concave. I personally wouldn't care...the bigger concern is full penetration and no porosity or dags on the inside to break free and damage turbines.

Simon-S14, about the only manifold I have ever seen without the flaws you are pointing out is Full Race. 6boost, ETM, Brae etc all have one or two welds that are a little concave, a small bit of undercut. Hell the 6boost collector that everyone loves has jack all penetration and if you take the turbo off after some hours or running you will see that expansion will have opened up and split the once neat, perfect looking collector ID.

I appreciate you are a ticketed boiler maker and I am not, but unless you are looking at the ID and checking for penetration I dont know how you can confidently say that it is a weak weld. Could have easily closed up the fit up and put a capping run on it to make it look sexy and people would be happy. The ID could show that there is no penetration and a risk of cracking and if so then I would agree you are right. But I think based on the one picture we might be jumping the gun a little calling it a weak weld

These pictures are of the manifold we just sent out to a client overseas, this has a 38mm pipe and i will post up pix tomorrow of the same version with our 50mm wg port

I will also try get a picture of the inside of where the welds have been made to show you what it looks like so you know there is nothing going to fly out of these welds.

mani2.jpg

mani3l.jpg

mani5.jpg

manik.jpg

Edited by Hybrid1310

Any under cut will lead to it cracking that is the soft spot and penateation has nothing to do with it. Also only one run should ever be done on things like this unless it's been heat treated after welding? For the price it wont be so that small amount of under cut will end up a crack. No offense dude but a plastic 5 dollar ruler don't give me much confidence in it being straight. Should be sighted off the edge of the flange aswell. I'm not meaning to sound rude but it's better you take in the critasim 6boost would of gone through the same thing

Edited by Bsa

exactly, undercut on the welds will lead to iissues. hence my comment about it being a weak weld. price also has nothing to do with it as it takes very little extra effort and time to get a concave weld which has ample coverage and penetration.

fix a few little issues and then these manifolds would be awesome

The term you guys are talking about is having ample "reinforcement'".

That weld, though it has a small amount of undercut and not enough reinforcement will probably still be fine. The beauty of the buttweld fittings is the beveled edges already, so you get a good amount of weld in the the V joint already.

If it was a square edge butt weld with no prep then I would be abit worried.

I think you are all being too critical. As R33_racer touched on. I would be concerned if it was a tubular weld with a square butt...but being pipe I am betting the thing woudl fail due to poor fusion, lack of penetration etc well before a bit of undercut.

Technically people are right about the defect in the weld...its a matter of what is acceptable for a car manifold. Thats going to be pretty subjective

im not saying that it will fail straight away. but put two welds together side by side.. one with an undercut and the other with a concave overlap and i know which one will stand the test of time.

manifolds are subject to massive heat cycles.. and generally the first place they crack is at a welded joint.

my point? weld them properly and they will last

The good thing about mild steel is it is more forgiving when being heat cycled. If it were stainless, then it would definitely be a problem, especially a thin walled section like alot of the cheap manifolds have.

The common failure point is almost always the heat affected zone, not so much the welded joint. Atleast thats what ive noticed on alot of manifolds that have failed.

So long as its apples for apples comparison then definitely, a properly welded joint will outlast a joint that has defects.

So how do we break into the Trust factory and steel all their tacked up manifolds and weld them properly. My old trust manifold worked a treat, it had a few small issues with cracks over the 8 years I had it.. and when repairing the cracks I was shocked to see that the original welds had 30-50% penetration at best. Would have been such a good thing if welded as though it was coded pressure piping.

Ever heard of the heat effected zone on a weld the outer edge is the weakest point. Mild steel will crack over time same with stainless maybe I'm being to critical but it takes a extra few min to do it properly

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