Jump to content
SAU Community

Circuit Semi Slicks

Roy

By Roy,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

I'm still tossing up my next R-comp purchase, have A050 M at the moment in 265/35R18 and thinking of trying out some 295/30R18 if they fit but curious on how the Hankook Z221 perform considering the price, can also get them in a 285/30R18 which may be a happy medium in size.

So in terms of outright lap times, how would a 285 Z221 compare with a 265 A050M?

  • Replies 554
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hrd-hr30
hrd-hr30

A050 M seem to grip OK even when cold just an excuse to post a pic of the mighty 120Y at Mt Cotton yesterday But they are the grippiest tyre I've ever used.

Snowman
Snowman

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps. These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One int

gtr jet
gtr jet

Do a couple of quick heli's in the closest intersection and then park it back in the garage overnight.

Posted Images

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

The big feedback I'm hearing from the IPRA guys since going from the 048's to 050's is not only that the grip levels seem much higher, but they maintain the grip almost to the end, and don't seem as bothered by heat cycles. The end result is that many are claiming better value for money as they're getting the full life out of tyres, rather than binning them (selling cheap) after a few heat cycles when there's still a lot of tread left.

Not sure how the Hankooks compare to 048's, but the 050's certainly crap all over the 48's.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

A050's do seem to last a lot longer then A048's and still give good grip levels.

I have a good supply of Ao48's from the V9 utes series where teams would only run a set for one round and then off load them as the grip level had gone away. Many of these tyres still have heaps of tread but have lost a few seconds in lap times - but they are great for track days. By comparison the A050's are kept until they are down to the wear indicators as the grip level does not drop off as quickly.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

How would the Z221 store compared to something like A050? My size is 235 45 17 and the Z221 M are $250ea in that size, I can't find A050 for less than $450ea

That's about right for the price difference.

I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

That's about right for the price difference.

I haven't run on either but I'd happily take the Hankooks. Yokohama had them banned from Superlap for a reason, and most of the people that buy new Yokos do so because their race rules require thenm.....

I didn't know that about Superlap, interesting!

For around the $250ea mark the Z221's seem like the best option, that's almost still KU36/RSR etc money.

I went to a track day at Marulan a few weeks ago and a couple of guys there were running them with big praise.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

How would the Z221 store compared to something like A050? My size is 235 45 17 and the Z221 M are $250ea in that size, I can't find A050 for less than $450ea

Basically the same sort of difference for price in 18's. I don't really mind wear as much as I don't want to go backwards in time.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps.

These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One interesting thing I found with them was they really took 3-4 laps to get up to temp and for the times to stabilize. They were a mega tyre for a race though as I was doing 10-12 lap sessions and from lap 4 on wards they were better - but not sure they would be the ideal option if you were only doing 3 lap sprints. As lap 1 was a good +2s slower than lap 4.

As an example here was one of the sessions I did at Winton. You can see the fastest lap was lap 7 and then it was pretty consistent after that.

1. 1:37.6933

2. 1:36.9572

3. 1:36.4395

4. 1:35.6922

5. 1:35.5647

6. 1:35.2582

7. 1:34.7901

8. 1:35.1124

9. 1:35.4962

10. 1:35.2636

11. 1:35.1733

My experience with A050's however is their best lap is lap 1.

  • Like 3
SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps.

These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One interesting thing I found with them was they really took 3-4 laps to get up to temp and for the times to stabilize. They were a mega tyre for a race though as I was doing 10-12 lap sessions and from lap 4 on wards they were better - but not sure they would be the ideal option if you were only doing 3 lap sprints. As lap 1 was a good +2s slower than lap 4.

As an example here was one of the sessions I did at Winton. You can see the fastest lap was lap 7 and then it was pretty consistent after that.

1. 1:37.6933

2. 1:36.9572

3. 1:36.4395

4. 1:35.6922

5. 1:35.5647

6. 1:35.2582

7. 1:34.7901

8. 1:35.1124

9. 1:35.4962

10. 1:35.2636

11. 1:35.1733

My experience with A050's however is their best lap is lap 1.

Great info, from what others have said the Hankook soft is more like the A050 medium so I wonder if that makes a difference. Do you have times on a A050 to compare?

I tend to get my best lap on medium A050 on the 3rd hot lap, don't know if it comes down the driving style, tyre pressures or something else

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

No I don't have A050 data with this car. That was the first (and only) time I have driven it to date.

But I doubt the Hankook softs are like the A050 Mediums. The softs seem pretty special judging by what we've seen at WTAC.

I just checked and I was running the Hankook Mediums. As you say it may come down to tyre temps/pressures. We were aiming for 34 hot but that was after 10 laps, not 3. Maybe higher starting pressures would yield better results for early laps - I'm not 100% sure TBH. I just know I struggled to get them to "turn on" in the early laps each time out.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

But I will also say the tyres I used had already done a 4hr race at QR and then I did a bit over 50 laps of Winton (just over 150km's) and they were still in pretty damn good condition so they certainly seem to wear well.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hankook mediums are the wrong compound choice for sprints. Not fair to compare those to A050 Mediums - the comparable Hankook compound is C70 Soft. Edited this earlier quote to make it a bit clearer:

I learnt the hard way. Bought a pair of bargain secondhand 275 Z214 C51 "Mediums" for the back of the Soarer, only to find they were harder and less grippy than the 245 NT01s I had on there. I had NFI about the Hankook compounds at the time, but "medium" sounded like what I wanted for sprints. Wrong! They're not that old and had almost new tread, so at first I thought they might just have been cooked or heat cycled too many times. But a mate who runs C70s told me about the compounds... At least it was only $100 bucks wasted.

Then I bumped into the Hankook rep up here at a hillclimb and he explained the C70 "softs" as really being medium compound and the C50 "medium" is really a hard compound. C90 (supersoft) for Hillclimbs/WTAC. C70 (soft) for Sprints and short races. C50 (medium) if you want to do a 3hr race!

Edited by hrd-hr30
SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Found this which is interesting

Have used RE55S, A050-M and Z221 C70 (soft). Z221s are awesome. Compared to A050 the difference in lap time so far has been around 2 seconds, but there's more in them, just have to get used to the grip. Though I have gone from 255/40/17 and 265/35/18 in A050-Medium compound to 265/35/18 and 285/30/18 Z221 soft so it's not a like-for-like comparison. In terms of actually driving the car there is less understeer, but when the car does understeer you still get better cornering ability compared to A050. Finally the Z221s seem to be able to be bullied a bit more. I pretty much killed a fresh set of A050-M at Winton by pushing too hard into the hairpins but with the Z221 you can push and they won't chunk out.

In terms of size, the future is 285-square or GTFO...

RB is right you have about 3 optimal laps then the grip starts to slide off, my car is generally only good for 3-4 laps anyway before it starts to get a little hot so for me the soft compound is perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...