Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

long time no post.

So my plans of motorsport are changing, I'm no longer doing the door to door racing and looking at doing more hill climbs, motorkahanas and the occasional track day

I've been using the V70A for last 4 years on my MX5. Been great for races however given I'm not going to be doing them and doing more shorter runs but grip still needed, are the NT01's from Nitto any good?

from my understanding its similar to R888?

I've not used either but the feedback on 888 was always that they worked well on lighter cars but not heavy ones like skylines.

Despite the posts above about wear, I would be going hankook for short runs, they are clearly the quickest tyres around, there is a reason they were banned from superlap. Plus they are 2/3 or even 1/2 the price of yoko/dunlop/bridgestone options

the Z221's?

yeah look good!

I had R888's years ago and swapped to the V70s and dropped some good lap times at Wakefield.

but given I'd only be at Wakie once this year I don't see the point in spending big!

If you were a bit serious on Hillclimbing, I'd look to a set of Avons in super soft compound. Hoosier probably do something similar spec/capability.

If not, go for the Nittos they will work virtually from cold. Waste of good money on the Hankooks for motorkhana, even softs take a little temp to work.

Hankook weren't "banned" from WTAC, but what regs are going to allow a tyre other than that made by a major event sponsor?

  • Like 1

Gordon Leven sells them, they are the duck's nuts for hillclimbing. http://www.gordonleven.com/brands/avon-tyres/ About $500ea as usual.

Neil got 4 weekends of 4x 1.5 minute runs out of them, or about 30min total life before they were rooted. But they were soft and quick.

The current hotness in hill climb semis slicks is A050 Soft. But they're serious money as well.

Be careful with Nittos - they're not road legal and are not on the CAMS prod car tyre list.

NT01 is the same compound as the R888.

The new R888R is meant to be fully road legal, at least in Europe, but whether the GG compound is the same as the R888 GG I'm not sure.

NT01 is the same compound as the R888.

The new R888R is meant to be fully road legal, at least in Europe, but whether the GG compound is the same as the R888 GG I'm not sure.

Neither of which has anything to do with NT01 being road legal or CAMS approved.

R888 are both road legal and CAMS approved. R888R are not on the list yet, but that's just a formality. NT01 will never be on the list as it does not comply with CAMS void ratio requirements.

  • Like 1

Any CAMS event with classes that have to use semis, are restricted to tyres on the list - even club events. It's just a question of whether the scrutes and competitors know/care, or if anyone else questions it. NT01s are not legal for those classes, but they're not exactly a performance advantage, so chances are nobody would care if they even knew... lol

The cowboys at Morgan Park turn a blind eye to people even using 2 groove cheater slicks in their modified production classes, but that doesn't mean the rules aren't there - it's just that they have mistakenly let it go on for so long that there's now too many people cheating the tyre rules to do anything about it!

Edited by hrd-hr30

No they heat cycle badly. 050s are better long term value as the grip levels are higher and they maintain those levels till they're bald.

048s are old technology - been around forever (at least 15 years that I know of)

+1 we used to have to run them as a control tyre and they were horrible.

Good on the first use, but thy quickly became junk even though they might have plenty of tread left

also, they about the most expensive tyre you can buy.

Well I know not to get them again. Picked up a cheapish second hand set from boz still heaps of tread but since you are saying they dont do well after some use may not matter. At wakey next month if they a rubbish can become a Motorkhana set haha.

I am doing Cams supersprints championship this year. I also dont have $2k for a set of tyres so what is something that will increase grip last a few rounds and not require my first born as a deposit?

Nothing wrong with using the 048s if you already have them. They won't be fast but still better than a set of road tyres. Once you wear them out you can make the decision on what to go for - whether you want to spend big $$ and be competitive or get something cheaper that might be a bit slower.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...