Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

long time no post.

So my plans of motorsport are changing, I'm no longer doing the door to door racing and looking at doing more hill climbs, motorkahanas and the occasional track day

I've been using the V70A for last 4 years on my MX5. Been great for races however given I'm not going to be doing them and doing more shorter runs but grip still needed, are the NT01's from Nitto any good?

from my understanding its similar to R888?

I've not used either but the feedback on 888 was always that they worked well on lighter cars but not heavy ones like skylines.

Despite the posts above about wear, I would be going hankook for short runs, they are clearly the quickest tyres around, there is a reason they were banned from superlap. Plus they are 2/3 or even 1/2 the price of yoko/dunlop/bridgestone options

the Z221's?

yeah look good!

I had R888's years ago and swapped to the V70s and dropped some good lap times at Wakefield.

but given I'd only be at Wakie once this year I don't see the point in spending big!

If you were a bit serious on Hillclimbing, I'd look to a set of Avons in super soft compound. Hoosier probably do something similar spec/capability.

If not, go for the Nittos they will work virtually from cold. Waste of good money on the Hankooks for motorkhana, even softs take a little temp to work.

Hankook weren't "banned" from WTAC, but what regs are going to allow a tyre other than that made by a major event sponsor?

  • Like 1

Gordon Leven sells them, they are the duck's nuts for hillclimbing. http://www.gordonleven.com/brands/avon-tyres/ About $500ea as usual.

Neil got 4 weekends of 4x 1.5 minute runs out of them, or about 30min total life before they were rooted. But they were soft and quick.

The current hotness in hill climb semis slicks is A050 Soft. But they're serious money as well.

Be careful with Nittos - they're not road legal and are not on the CAMS prod car tyre list.

NT01 is the same compound as the R888.

The new R888R is meant to be fully road legal, at least in Europe, but whether the GG compound is the same as the R888 GG I'm not sure.

NT01 is the same compound as the R888.

The new R888R is meant to be fully road legal, at least in Europe, but whether the GG compound is the same as the R888 GG I'm not sure.

Neither of which has anything to do with NT01 being road legal or CAMS approved.

R888 are both road legal and CAMS approved. R888R are not on the list yet, but that's just a formality. NT01 will never be on the list as it does not comply with CAMS void ratio requirements.

  • Like 1

Any CAMS event with classes that have to use semis, are restricted to tyres on the list - even club events. It's just a question of whether the scrutes and competitors know/care, or if anyone else questions it. NT01s are not legal for those classes, but they're not exactly a performance advantage, so chances are nobody would care if they even knew... lol

The cowboys at Morgan Park turn a blind eye to people even using 2 groove cheater slicks in their modified production classes, but that doesn't mean the rules aren't there - it's just that they have mistakenly let it go on for so long that there's now too many people cheating the tyre rules to do anything about it!

Edited by hrd-hr30

No they heat cycle badly. 050s are better long term value as the grip levels are higher and they maintain those levels till they're bald.

048s are old technology - been around forever (at least 15 years that I know of)

+1 we used to have to run them as a control tyre and they were horrible.

Good on the first use, but thy quickly became junk even though they might have plenty of tread left

also, they about the most expensive tyre you can buy.

Well I know not to get them again. Picked up a cheapish second hand set from boz still heaps of tread but since you are saying they dont do well after some use may not matter. At wakey next month if they a rubbish can become a Motorkhana set haha.

I am doing Cams supersprints championship this year. I also dont have $2k for a set of tyres so what is something that will increase grip last a few rounds and not require my first born as a deposit?

Nothing wrong with using the 048s if you already have them. They won't be fast but still better than a set of road tyres. Once you wear them out you can make the decision on what to go for - whether you want to spend big $$ and be competitive or get something cheaper that might be a bit slower.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...