Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those Nankangs look pretty good, unfortunately their 17's are not wide enough for mine http://nankangtyres.com.au/tyre/ar-1/

Have to say that my present Hoosiers are doing well, they are wearing very evenly across the tread with the shoulders holding up nicely, better than any other tyre I've tried. The other thing with Hoosiers is their sizing, plenty of 17" choice in 40 series which keeps the width up and the diameter down to help clear the guards. EG the 245/40 Hoosier is 622mm dia, 235/45 Hankook Z221 is 644, the difference allows me to use the wider 245's on the front, comparable Hoosier rears would be 275/40 only 648 dia.

I'm talking sprints where there is time to warm the tyres up, not time attack.

The Nankangs are brand new. I'm sure there'll be more sizes to come.

Of course you're not talking time attack when you mention Hoosier. Time attack have to use semis. Hoosiers aren't semis, they're 2 groove 'cheater slicks'. The latest ones aren't even 2 groovers, just a few broken dashes. Not semis by any stretch of the imagination.

ho_a7_ci2_l.jpg

The Nankangs could turn out to be good going on the Hankook success story. Price them cheaply to get them out there and let word of mouth do the rest then when they get popular stick the price up.

Tried them yet Harry? C'mon, get a move on.

  • 4 weeks later...

Tried the Nankangs out last week. Ran a best of 60.3 but that was not really representative of their potential - the admin people listed me as entering a Toyota Starlet instead of the Soarer that has been in their database for years, so I got put in a slow group with cars running over 15sec per lap slower!!! That's alot on a 60sec lap. I lapped that car twice in one session... As a result, I was only getting one or two clean laps each session to set a time.

Comparison to other tyres I've used - no car changes:

235 Hankook Z221 soft C70 compound 59.8

265 Nankang AR1 60.3

245 Nitto NT01 61.3

The rear doesn't stay quite as attached as the Hankooks did on the fast turn onto the front straight. Mid corner to exit they start letting go just slightly. Other than that they feel good. They should be a bit closer to the Hankook softs than those times were, but I don't think they're quite a match for them. That's still an awesome result for a tyre that's $209 per corner, compared to arguably the fastest tyre available!

Wear was very good. The only question mark over them is a strange circumferential line that's appeared around the center of each tyre - it's not quite straight. I don't know what it is. It runs the wrong way to be a tread splice. It's not from contact with the body as it's on all 4 tyres, and there's nothing to hit in the rear wheel wells. there's definite contact being made on the body in the front right - you can hear it in the left hander "Hungry" corner.

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Like 3

I wonder how the NT01 in the same size would square up to the Nangers.

From what I'm seeing they perform well for you, but the adult in me is telling me to never buy Nankangs again because I'm not 18 anymore.

  • Like 1

Pretty keen to try the nankang ar1s to be honest quite cheap.Might give them ago next round of tyres im only on kenda kr20a and nakang ns20r at the moment so would expect large improvement

I wonder how the NT01 in the same size would square up to the Nangers.

From what I'm seeing they perform well for you, but the adult in me is telling me to never buy Nankangs again because I'm not 18 anymore.

I'd never buy NT01s again! Better off buying RSRs.

That's a strange result for RSR v NT01... Normally not that far off the pace of NT01, which is pretty god for a non R comp, alot cheaper, road legal etc

First I've heard of RSR delaminating too. Tread splice opening yeah, but delaminating?

Edited by hrd-hr30

When I reported it to federal they considered it delaminating. We are probably talking about the same thing here.

I don't think it's strange at all. Rsr lasted maybe 2/3 hot laps and then greased over, Nt01 I could go harder and get about 5 hot laps before they overheated.

But nt01 is still only a introductory semi whereas rsr is very much a street tyre.

Why would you never buy nt01 again?

1. They're the slowest semi money can buy.

2. They're not road legal so you can't even legally drive to the track on them which is a PITA.

3. They're not CAMS approved for production car classes.

You're better of doing very similar times on street tyres, or buying literally any other semi (other than R888 :P)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...