Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1 for bleeding the brakes. Mine were going soft after two sessions. I need to do a full flush and I have the RBF660! I think Neil mentioned that most of the racer guys run something else.. Don't remember what though.

I run Hawk Blue Race pads. Great pad for running all day without fade, but they will eat rotors. But then again, I think any really agressive pad will. Changing pads on Skylines is so easy I really recommend getting a set just for track and different set for the street. I run A1RM's on the street. Will probably step up to the Hawk HT-10's soon.

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1 for bleeding the brakes. Mine were going soft after two sessions. I need to do a full flush and I have the RBF660! I think Neil mentioned that most of the racer guys run something else.. Don't remember what though.

I run Hawk Blue Race pads. Great pad for running all day without fade, but they will eat rotors. But then again, I think any really agressive pad will. Changing pads on Skylines is so easy I really recommend getting a set just for track and different set for the street. I run A1RM's on the street. Will probably step up to the Hawk HT-10's soon.

Would be keen to hear what fluid the racer guys use so I know in the future

Yea after finally doing a track day I can see that the pads I have (project mu Bspec) are good for the street and the odd spirited drive

Will be getting a second set of pads dedicated to track days will probably go the club racers (bit of a project mu whore :P) and have only heard good things about them

I'm hooked on track days now hahaha

i use motul rbf600. bleed before every track day, and on saturday arvo if you back up for the sunday ;)

i use hawk ht10 for the track on a custom brake set up. i've tried ferodo ds3000 but were no where near as good.

if you're on standard rotors, ferodo ds2500 are a good compromise on price, performance and rotor/pad wear. may be a little dusty than what you use now tho

i also run brake ducting from the front bar and use air deflectors as well

the brakes work every corner, lap after lap

just wondering what a oil temp would be that would cause damage to your car?? mine was at to around 120 when i was really giving it.

although at wakie in december it didnt get over 110 which was alot hotter day!

could it be my coolant isnt as fresh as it was in dec??

defs getting an oil cooler before another day and only did 4 proper runs in my car, 1 where i was going for real PB breaking speed (pitty i didnt get someone to time the bastard haha, would of beaten it for sure!)

also, if i were to get serious about track days what would be more things to protect the whole car??? (mainly the engine)

also, if i were to get serious about track days what would be more things to protect the whole car??? (mainly the engine)

Good ideas include:

External oil cooler

Fresh fully synth oil, around 10w-50 rating

Overfill oil by 1/2 litre

Oil catch can plummed correctly

Monitor oil levels and pressure regularly

Baffeled sump

Extended sump

Dry sump

Rich tune (also gives you a flame thrower effect on those chasing you)

Monitor air fuel ratio's

Good brake pads like nismo. Stay away from EBC reds (personal opinion)

fair enough, well cooler and catch can would be on the list for the next one. i use royal purple 10-40, some very good tips there :)

for a rich tune id probably need a tune first lol.

i dont understand the sump things, i shall research :)

thanks for your reply

(i know i could go to another section but i figured there were alot of people on the day itd help a few guys out)

i use motul rbf600. bleed before every track day, and on saturday arvo if you back up for the sunday ;)

i use hawk ht10 for the track on a custom brake set up. i've tried ferodo ds3000 but were no where near as good.

if you're on standard rotors, ferodo ds2500 are a good compromise on price, performance and rotor/pad wear. may be a little dusty than what you use now tho

i also run brake ducting from the front bar and use air deflectors as well

the brakes work every corner, lap after lap

see thats what i think i missed, bleeding before the day!!

Only had the new rotors (project mu scr pro fronts, dba 4000 rears) braided lines and rbf600 installed last october but engine went 3weeks after so probably only 3000km on this setup

maybe moisture was absorbed as it sat waiting for the new engine who knows hahaha

Atleast i know how to be more prepared for the next track day :D

Good brake pads like nismo. Stay away from EBC reds (personal opinion)

yep fark those EBC pieces of shit..

im running endless CCR-G pads with Lucas/TRW Grand Prix 600 fluid on my new brembo's

Having ridden in the GTR that these came from I can tell you they stop like stink and will go all day everyday.. Did 4 or so sessions back to back in december

Anyone tried Hawk DT60's?

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

But Neil drives to slow to makes sparks right?

LOL :nyaanyaa:

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Thanks for that Dunc, just spoke to Matt then he's getting me some prices. Would you put the same in the rears?

Cheers!

I use DTC-60s front and HT-10 rear for street and track. They will punish your rotors a bit and can be ridiculously noisy with street use but its too hard to accept the crap performance of street pads once you try these. I was previously using DS2500s and didnt want to go back to them after using the DTCs.

Im on to my second set now. I did some express bedding in before the NSCC track day on Sunday and they completely caught fire haha!!! Even when on fire they were working 100% :)

I have not tried race brakes however you might want to compare prices with http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ I get mine sent EMS for $260, last I checked in Sydney a couple of years ago another brake shop quoted me $430 hence choosing to buy from overseas.

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

people almost always use the compound of the rear pad to even out inherant inbalances in the braking system. In my case I can't even remember what was in the rear, some pagids or sbs I guess, but they are much less aggressive.

In a reasonably standard skyline brake system I would put something less aggressive in the front. If you want to stay with hawk I would go HT-10.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi from Canada, Both of my calipers are starting to fail. My car is a 2005 M35 Stagea ARX and I can't seem to find any parts or any cross reference caliper that would fit my car. Is there a company or a similar caliper that would fit and I could replace the OEM one. Or if anyone knows where I can find a new OEM. Any help is very appreciated. Let me know!
    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
×
×
  • Create New...