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Which kit have you got?

Haven't got one yet but I think I have pretty much made up my mind on the coolingmist CMGS Autolearn with the big boot mount tank

http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=CMGSSystemx&feature_key=controllerkits,

A bit more than some kits but seems to have a pretty good failsafe to automatically drop boost to a set figure when any fault is detected.

That kit looks nice, I think cooling mist stuff looks the goods.

With the failsafe, would you just be wiring it to an electronic boost controller so it turns it off if something fails and you just run off the actuator spring pressure?

Are you planning on running off maf voltage or boost?

Yep, just shuts off the boost controller and runs on actuator pressure. It's not perfect though as I like to have my actuator pretty close to my low boost setting if I can.

There was a little disclaimer on the coolingmist site about not being compatible with 0-5v maf but I can't remember where it is, I'll have to find it and I'll post it up. Ive looked at soooooo many kits over the last couple of weeks, it all get a bit confusing lol.

Some of the higher end kits around also run directly off of inj duty cycle which from what I've read is the best way to do it but they seem very complicated to wire/set up.

I think running off boost pressure is the easiest way to go but I'm gonna look into it further.

If you want the best kit and have a dual or multimap ecu then aquamist all the way it seems. Those kits have everything but you will pay for it ;)

Hmmmm can't wait to get my WMI kit now. Just bought the turbo kit for my 300ZX (doing NA+TT) and will be looking to put 15psi into it, its running 10.8:1 Static comp atm. A friends 300ZX TT is doing 250rwkw on 15psi with standard turbos but i'm aiming for about 225rwkw with mine, any more is a bonus.

Yep, just shuts off the boost controller and runs on actuator pressure. It's not perfect though as I like to have my actuator pretty close to my low boost setting if I can.

There was a little disclaimer on the coolingmist site about not being compatible with 0-5v maf but I can't remember where it is, I'll have to find it and I'll post it up. Ive looked at soooooo many kits over the last couple of weeks, it all get a bit confusing lol.

Some of the higher end kits around also run directly off of inj duty cycle which from what I've read is the best way to do it but they seem very complicated to wire/set up.

I think running off boost pressure is the easiest way to go but I'm gonna look into it further.

If you want the best kit and have a dual or multimap ecu then aquamist all the way it seems. Those kits have everything but you will pay for it ;)

Yeah we prefer to run WMI refferenced to INJ duty and map.

Yeah we prefer to run WMI refferenced to INJ duty and map.

Have you ever setup an aquamist hfs 3 on a z32 nistune ecu?

I guess it'd be a matter of tapping into one of the injectors wiring for the duty cycle, but how do you go about the MAP part with a standalone electronic boost controller?

Edited by Mitcho_7

you would go off MAF and not MAP if its not a MAP based ecu.

So just splice into the maf signal wire and it all works the same?

You run yours off of boost yeh? Have you had any dramas running it that way or do you think its a better option all round to run off IDC and MAP/MAF?

So just splice into the maf signal wire and it all works the same?

You run yours off of boost yeh? Have you had any dramas running it that way or do you think its a better option all round to run off IDC and MAP/MAF?

the kits we use have map sensor inbuilt.

So just splice into the maf signal wire and it all works the same?

You run yours off of boost yeh? Have you had any dramas running it that way or do you think its a better option all round to run off IDC and MAP/MAF?

mine is entirely map based and controlled by the snow performance box, it would be more accurate with injecting the mix if it used extra variables to work out the duty but I haven't had any issues as is.

Has anyone here DIY'd a kit?

Looking at the basic cooling mist stage 1 kit which is just a pump, nozzle, lines and boost switch. Put this together with a "5th injector" style driver running off an injector signal along with a PWM solenoid and presto a fuel proportional WMI kit for under $400 that doesn't use duty cycle to the pump to regulate itself.

Has anyone tried this with success?

Where can you source a solenoid that can be PWM'd and is compatible with water and methanol?

Opinions on this?

And is it possible to power a PWM solenoid with a separate 12volt source and the earth hooked to an injector switching earth? Or would the change damage the injector driver and require a separate driver for the WMI solenoid?

people have tried using fuel injectors in the past to do it, it destroys the injector. they arent made to spray water and most arent made to suit methanol either.

I didn't mean using a fuel injector, a proper WMI solenoid pigybacked either directly into the fuel injector earth wire, or running off a seperate 5th injector style driver.

That way (hooked up directly) WMI will be injected at a constant pressure but directly proportional to fuel based on the WMI nozzle size used. A seperate adjustable driver would then allow more or less where it's required.

Edited by blk94r33

Opinions on this?

And is it possible to power a PWM solenoid with a separate 12volt source and the earth hooked to an injector switching earth? Or would the change damage the injector driver and require a separate driver for the WMI solenoid?

Any opinions on this?

Opinions on this?

And is it possible to power a PWM solenoid with a separate 12volt source and the earth hooked to an injector switching earth? Or would the change damage the injector driver and require a separate driver for the WMI solenoid?

Dont think this is a good idea at all as you would be adding load to that driver circuit, thus changing the impedance the ecu is seeing which can not only damage the ecu but also cause that inj to flow different from the rest

Dont think this is a good idea at all as you would be adding load to that driver circuit, thus changing the impedance the ecu is seeing which can not only damage the ecu but also cause that inj to flow different from the rest

Cheers! I was wondering if it would load the driver more, or if the load is only applied to the positive side (ie 12v) as the injectors are earth switched?

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