How To Replace A Timing Belt (20/25/26) Pics!

[Abez]

Hey mate just wondering do you need to have to get new tensioner and idle pully or can you just use old ones??

[SkudR33]

Hey mate just wondering do you need to have to get new tensioner and idle pully or can you just use old ones??

You don't have to replace them but it's highly recommended... Look at it from this perspective; will cost $200 for a timing kit which includes the bearings.. This is cheap insurance for protecting your motor. You'll be kicking yourself if one of your bearings fails and you smash the internals of a perfectly healthy motor.

[Abez]

New pullyz it is mate thanx for the help

[HCD_Velcra]

Hey guys

As many times said, well written guide, though I would be happy about more pics

In any case I wonder, cause the other guides I checked für Timing belt stuff are always with taking out the complete cooler stuff. OFC I saw you got this doen without, but would you say it is still makable for one who never did that before without taking out the cooler or is it more like you got the pro Hands and know every "grip"?

I didn´t get that part with the controle of the marks. So you set it all up, Tension the belt like you descriped, and then rotate with the hex ClockWise. But the marks will be right after many complete turns, is that correct? So I just turn and turn and hope that they´ll end up perfectly on the marks somewhen? If, I am ready to tighten everything and Close the case n so on, right?

Thanks a lot

[Ben C34]

Yep. Once you have lined up the marks they will always line up.

I hope English is your second language!

[HCD_Velcra]

What about the sentences in which they say "wont line up straight after 1 or some turns"

Yeye it is

Hey I´m german, I´m allowed to speak like that

[Ben C34]

What about the sentences in which they say "wont line up straight after 1 or some turns"

Yeye it is

Hey I´m german, I´m allowed to speak like that

Thw dots on the pulleys only line up every second turn.

The dots on the belt I'm not sure, I don't worry about them

[HCD_Velcra]

Ya I get that part with the markings on the belt itself. Alright thanks

[89CAL]

The timing marks on the crank and Cams only line up on every second turn because the cams are turning at half the speed of the engine. 4 stroke engine = 4 strokes per cycle.

It's easier to do it with the radiator out, but obviously from this guide its not 100% necessary. I would just pull it out because it doesnt really take long and if your doing this sort of service it probably wouldnt hurt to replace coolant as well.

I think if you want to use a puller (which I would recomend to ensure the balancer comes off nice) you would need to pull the radiator

[AMR33]

The Bit Im confused with is marking the CAS and Crank. Can someone explain this in a bit more detail please? And if anyone has any pics to clarify that would be sweet

Cheers

[BstewyR33]

To revive an old thread - used this tutorial the other weekend to do my 200K service

The above question should have been answered by now - but if not, the CAS has slots for the 3 screws to secure it to the cam cover - making it adjustable. Put a mark between the CAS & the cam cover case so that it is set as it was prior to taking it off

The crank- like the other 2 timing marks has a little dot on the outside of one of the teeth, get a light down there and look for it.

One other thing to note after putting the belt on that I found on the nicoclub website, might explain the setting the tensioner a bit clearer

I'll be taking the belt off and re doin it this weekend & remember to do what is mentioned in the picture above

Edited May 21, 2015 by BstewyR33

[89CAL]

I would check the timing and adjust the CAS after putting it all back together rather than just marking it

It's just a good practice, even 1 degree out on the CAS can be an issue.

[Ben C34]

Marking the cas to get the timing roughly right for initial start up is a good idea.

Relying on it to be correct for driving around is very silly.

The timing must be set with a light.

[GH05T]

is there any non detrimental symptoms if it is slightly out, as in slight loss of power, missfire? is it just like having a tooth out?

[iruvyouskyrine]

It is exactly the same result as having a tooth out, if it is far enough out of position.

[tridentt150v]

Dumb question......

I've set the timing at 15' at 650 rpm ar per manual.

[iruvyouskyrine]

What's the question? That's how it should be done.

[tridentt150v]

I asked then realised it was dumb so edited it out. I probably didn't explain myself...its all good.

[HarrisRacing]

This timing belt is simple. The "tensioner spring" is only used to SET the timing belt tension the first time. There is NO MECHANISM on the RB26 to maintain tension during operation. This mechanical simplicity is fine due to the fact that these cars use short and simple timing belts.

ALSO there is a very important step of checking the spring operation. They show a range of motion for it in the manual to make sure that you are getting enough tension on the belt where you are hooking the end of the spring on the stud.

Line up marks: cams and crank pulleys

Make sure tensioner spring is hooked on stud and in place and tensioner pulley is free to rotate

Use crank bolt to rotate crank clockwise at least 2 turns and SLOWLY and evenly bring timing marks back into spot (watch the tensioner as you do this...it should move around a bit and you will see how the "tensioner" is taking up slack as you rotate the engine through).

Note the position of the hex key slot on the tensioner and carefully insert hex key wrench.

while holding the hex key in position, torque nut down on tensioner.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Or in my case, thrown the belt on, didn't use the spring, check cams align with timing marks, use Hex key to tension the belt to however tight I felt like setting it, torque up tensioner, stand back look at it and say "she'll be right" and it's good.