Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont know how I forgot to post this. It's my surge tank and AFM delete pipes. I painted the surge tank black so headlights didnt reflect off the alloy..... because im a nice bloke ;)

plenum002.jpg

Bobby, the box is a OS 1-3 gearset with the big dick input shaft. It was behind the engine before. It got pulled down and put back together since. Nice box but really needs a stroker to work.... Orrrr have smaller turbos!

I can't see myself revving any harder than 8000 RPM. I found myself with the -5's changing at 6500 and just ride the torque. See where the power drops off but 8000 RPM will be the shift point with the hard cut set at 8600-8800 JUST so I don't hit it.

Nice

Since your not reving past 9000 rpm its all good, and you will notice it set up like this it will want to rev and the squish will make these turbo's come on boost at a lower rpm. I guess you will be able to compare to your last build with the dyno sheets.

Cant wait to see the results.

Nice

Since your not reving past 9000 rpm its all good, and you will notice it set up like this it will want to rev and the squish will make these turbo's come on boost at a lower rpm. I guess you will be able to compare to your last build with the dyno sheets.

Cant wait to see the results.

Thats why I decided to run the -5's again. The whole time I was building the head it was "response, response, response". I have been assured it will crack 450 but im more interested in the mid range.... The goal is 400 by 5000 RPM.... I wasn't that far off it before it died.

With the single, time will tell!

A tad bummed I took the valve relief out as I qould have been around 9:4 - 9.5:1 but atleast it's not 8.5!

Bring on the tune!

Pooooorrnnn

Who made that for you of you don't mind me asking??

I took it to Unigroup and said "Give me a 5 litre surge tank under the car... GO".... I got that back.

I've never had an issue... I have a Fuel pressure gauge in the car.

i'll evenutally put a little fuel cooler like what Bobby did. i've seen the data that Unigroup has of warm/hot fuel and its just downright scary!

Sweet yea I've been looking at similar options but want it under car, fuel cooler for sure

Nice to see your build nearly finished can't wait to see the end results both twin and single

Sweet yea I've been looking at similar options but want it under car, fuel cooler for sure

Nice to see your build nearly finished can't wait to see the end results both twin and single

Single will make more grunt for sure.... the question is if it can match the twins mid range and driveability!

Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't believe it's taken 22 pages to get to this point!

Should be a weapon once it's done. Looks sexy too! Can't wait to see some videos.

I'm at the crossroads of doing a dirty 30 or stroking the 26 so your results may make a difference.

Good luck once you hit the dyno!

Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't believe it's taken 22 pages to get to this point!

Should be a weapon once it's done. Looks sexy too! Can't wait to see some videos.

I'm at the crossroads of doing a dirty 30 or stroking the 26 so your results may make a difference.

Good luck once you hit the dyno!

Just waiting on parts and people, not to mention the shit talk in the thread.

Starting fresh? 30 hands down!

I'm doing the 2630 conversion into a GTR and if I started again it would be the BC 2.9 kit

Paul, would love to see this on the dyno, I'm free Thursday should be done by then yeah :P keep the pics coming, love your work it gives me ideas

I'm doing the 2630 conversion into a GTR and if I started again it would be the BC 2.9 kit

Paul, would love to see this on the dyno, I'm free Thursday should be done by then yeah :P keep the pics coming, love your work it gives me ideas

Where are you upto with it man?

Ideas? What ideas are you talking about?

good, just waiting another fitting for the oil pump to external feed it which is going to work better then I thought with heaps of clearance from the AC, then 3 bungs into sump for the oil cooler setup and I came close the bottom end then it's just the hot side gaskets and lines Quaife diff and Ross balancer then insert it in car

when I say ideas I mean copy you of coarse, things like the pipes into turbos, though I melted one of then, the surge tank, possible cams etc

sorry if that's not clear to read I changed the turbo on my truck today and gave it a service and thought I could use a beer or 11 so far after doing so

what about a 30 with a nitto 3.2 stroker....just sayin.

Awesome looking surge tank Paul

I'm actually thinking about doing this next year, still trying to to decide if I can justify the cash or not

I've been there and built an rb2630...fun it was but it simply didn't feel like a gtr anymore (damn block is out of a vl commodore) and it really annoyed me that things didn't line up the way it should have by having to extend inter cooler pipes etc blah blah.

My mate bought a my12 r35gtr...now that is shockingly quick and its stock!!! My old gtr would have still got it though :)

The engineering and tractable power is really mind blowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...