Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont know how I forgot to post this. It's my surge tank and AFM delete pipes. I painted the surge tank black so headlights didnt reflect off the alloy..... because im a nice bloke ;)

plenum002.jpg

Bobby, the box is a OS 1-3 gearset with the big dick input shaft. It was behind the engine before. It got pulled down and put back together since. Nice box but really needs a stroker to work.... Orrrr have smaller turbos!

I can't see myself revving any harder than 8000 RPM. I found myself with the -5's changing at 6500 and just ride the torque. See where the power drops off but 8000 RPM will be the shift point with the hard cut set at 8600-8800 JUST so I don't hit it.

Nice

Since your not reving past 9000 rpm its all good, and you will notice it set up like this it will want to rev and the squish will make these turbo's come on boost at a lower rpm. I guess you will be able to compare to your last build with the dyno sheets.

Cant wait to see the results.

Nice

Since your not reving past 9000 rpm its all good, and you will notice it set up like this it will want to rev and the squish will make these turbo's come on boost at a lower rpm. I guess you will be able to compare to your last build with the dyno sheets.

Cant wait to see the results.

Thats why I decided to run the -5's again. The whole time I was building the head it was "response, response, response". I have been assured it will crack 450 but im more interested in the mid range.... The goal is 400 by 5000 RPM.... I wasn't that far off it before it died.

With the single, time will tell!

A tad bummed I took the valve relief out as I qould have been around 9:4 - 9.5:1 but atleast it's not 8.5!

Bring on the tune!

Pooooorrnnn

Who made that for you of you don't mind me asking??

I took it to Unigroup and said "Give me a 5 litre surge tank under the car... GO".... I got that back.

I've never had an issue... I have a Fuel pressure gauge in the car.

i'll evenutally put a little fuel cooler like what Bobby did. i've seen the data that Unigroup has of warm/hot fuel and its just downright scary!

Sweet yea I've been looking at similar options but want it under car, fuel cooler for sure

Nice to see your build nearly finished can't wait to see the end results both twin and single

Sweet yea I've been looking at similar options but want it under car, fuel cooler for sure

Nice to see your build nearly finished can't wait to see the end results both twin and single

Single will make more grunt for sure.... the question is if it can match the twins mid range and driveability!

Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't believe it's taken 22 pages to get to this point!

Should be a weapon once it's done. Looks sexy too! Can't wait to see some videos.

I'm at the crossroads of doing a dirty 30 or stroking the 26 so your results may make a difference.

Good luck once you hit the dyno!

Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't believe it's taken 22 pages to get to this point!

Should be a weapon once it's done. Looks sexy too! Can't wait to see some videos.

I'm at the crossroads of doing a dirty 30 or stroking the 26 so your results may make a difference.

Good luck once you hit the dyno!

Just waiting on parts and people, not to mention the shit talk in the thread.

Starting fresh? 30 hands down!

I'm doing the 2630 conversion into a GTR and if I started again it would be the BC 2.9 kit

Paul, would love to see this on the dyno, I'm free Thursday should be done by then yeah :P keep the pics coming, love your work it gives me ideas

I'm doing the 2630 conversion into a GTR and if I started again it would be the BC 2.9 kit

Paul, would love to see this on the dyno, I'm free Thursday should be done by then yeah :P keep the pics coming, love your work it gives me ideas

Where are you upto with it man?

Ideas? What ideas are you talking about?

good, just waiting another fitting for the oil pump to external feed it which is going to work better then I thought with heaps of clearance from the AC, then 3 bungs into sump for the oil cooler setup and I came close the bottom end then it's just the hot side gaskets and lines Quaife diff and Ross balancer then insert it in car

when I say ideas I mean copy you of coarse, things like the pipes into turbos, though I melted one of then, the surge tank, possible cams etc

sorry if that's not clear to read I changed the turbo on my truck today and gave it a service and thought I could use a beer or 11 so far after doing so

what about a 30 with a nitto 3.2 stroker....just sayin.

Awesome looking surge tank Paul

I'm actually thinking about doing this next year, still trying to to decide if I can justify the cash or not

I've been there and built an rb2630...fun it was but it simply didn't feel like a gtr anymore (damn block is out of a vl commodore) and it really annoyed me that things didn't line up the way it should have by having to extend inter cooler pipes etc blah blah.

My mate bought a my12 r35gtr...now that is shockingly quick and its stock!!! My old gtr would have still got it though :)

The engineering and tractable power is really mind blowing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...