Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Fan On Gtr To Thermo Fans?

wingnut999

By wingnut999,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Thermo's rob power from the engine too, they are less efficient than the engine fan and suck a heap of current from the alternator whenever they are on.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off, that's my plan. One small thermo and one large one set at different temps may help too.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off,
That's how the are supposed to be set up. But very few actually set them up this way. Many set them so they are permanently on, which totally defeats the purpose - all that does is shift the load on the engine from the fan to the alternator.

The problem I had when I tried it (32 GTS4), was getting air to flow through the radiator while the car was moving. I could only JUST get airflow, and the slightest uphill in the road coud induce the fan to activate.

For the few kW gained by removing the load of the fan, it is not worth cooking an engine.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Well those cars were designed by the manufacturer to use thermos as standard.

A working clutch fan such as the nissans will only draw engine power when at idle or just above, as they are supposed to taper off/decouple as RPM increases.

As they wear out they tend to stay engaged longer and start to sound like an EA falcooon.

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
Posted (edited)

When they wear out they stop working i.e you can hold the fan while revving the engine when hot, the viscosity in the gel changes and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

Edited by 51NNA
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

So all the WRX's and many other cars that come from the factory with a thermo fan are going too cook there engines? lol...

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
Posted

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

Yes, i didnt mean the battery will stop the current draw, but with the correct battery the load would be reduced on the alt, unless the thermos constantly on.

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

...were did i say "put a clutch fan on a wrx" All im saying is MOST cars come with thermos with no cooling issues and yes ive driven a falcon and worked on 100s, whats that got to do with anything?

abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Garage 7 sell both the fans and the hubs at a much more reasonable price then that

www.garage7.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...