Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think Castrol qualifies as "real" synthetic. I was using Motul (well Nismo actually because I got it the same price) but have changed to Agip which seems to be a proper synthetic at a much cheaper price. Tried the Agip Racing 10W 60 which seemed to be fine but I want to try a lighter weight oil such as 5W40 so trying other Agip synthetics. I have an N1 oil pump so have heaps of pressure no matter what so relying on oil testing to tell me whats happening.

I should get my sample test results back today Bob, $30 sounded pretty good to me for an oil sampling kit. How much were you getting the Agip for? I'm assuming you can buy that in bulk?

I don't think Castrol qualifies as "real" synthetic.

Isn't there laws against false advertising? I can only assume if any manufacturer put the words "fully synthetic" on their label, it must meet certain standards. Or is there some leeway which allows someone to sell mineral based oil as "fully synthetic", or maybe only a % of the oil needs to be synthetic to qualify?? Maybe it's like McDonalds food having some "nutritional value", lol.

lol, they aren't falsely advertising. "Fully synthetic" has been deemed to be a minimum of 70% synthetic compounds. 100% synthetic is just that (which is why Nulon had to change their engine oil packaging).

For reference, I enquired about Anglomoil's "Roadmaster 500" as I have heard good things about it in the past and it is around $55 per 5L tin (yes, a tin, like in days gone by). Here is their response to my questions if you can be bothered reading a wall of text;

The Roadmaster 500 is a Group 3 based synthetic, I don't know of anyone making this type of oil from Group 5 base. Before the advent of Group 3 it was the norm to use a mixture of Group 4 and Group 5. The reason for this is that Group 4 is not a very good solvent for the additives and has limited seal swell characteristics. The Group 5 (Ester) was added at about 10% to enable the Group 4 to perform satisfactorily in these areas. This type of formulation was quite expensive to produce due to the cost of the base oils, the only product that comes to mind made this way is Mobil 1 due to Mobil being the worlds largest producer of Group 4 (Poly Alpha Olefin). The Group 3 base oil is a severely modified mineral oil with the same characteristics as Group 4 and has been determined that it can carry the title synthetic at a more economical price. This approach to most synthetic motor oils in the market is in the majority. There should be no problems with using E85 and Roadmaster 500. You can find a data sheet on our Web site www.anglomoil.com under Products, Petrol Engine Oils.

I should get my sample test results back today Bob, $30 sounded pretty good to me for an oil sampling kit. How much were you getting the Agip for? I'm assuming you can buy that in bulk?

Agip varies from $55 to $70 per 5L (v Motul at about $70 for 2L) and the Agip I am trying next (5W 40) is $225 for 20L

Meh I got castrol 0w30 fully.synthetic in mine just for that castrol comment earlier in thread. Booyeah

The other extreme from Castrol Edge 10W 60 which is almost definitely too thick. I was looking at 5w 30 weight but think its probably too light for my rB30 bottom end which is basically stock. It may be OK for a low mileage V6 in good nick for street use. Do you have an oil pressure and/or temp gauge?

Can anyone back up my experience whereby an engine that was being serviced using one brand for it's entire life (bar what was in it from the factory), & then when changing oil brands after ~180K the engine immediately starts using oil & then the rings go a short time (~10k) later.

This was in my work vehicle & was serviced by Rep##, first at one location then transferred to another. It was suggested to me that the different detergents (or other additives) were to blame - one built up over the years & then new oil removed them. Does this sound feasible? If so, it leads me to think the best thing is to regularly swap brands or pick one & stick with it forever.

I'm using an oil in my M35 that I don't particularly want to continue using (too expensive for what it is & shall remain nameless), but it's been the only oil used for the last 70K as the owner before me only used this one. Given my experience, I'm reluctant to change brands in case there is some truth to the above. My car performs well although the viscosity is a bit heavier than what most would use, but I have no comparison since it's always the same oil... Thoughts?

May have had something to do with the quality of the second oil in the work car?

I know that some of the oils that I have tried in the Magna (265000kms) have had very different results as to "usage". Most of these were the same weight as well.

eg, Nulon "synthetic" 10w40 (dropped after 6000kms due to ticking) - 5L went in and only 3 1/4L came out. Valvoline Synpower "synthetic" 5w40 (full 10,000kms) - 5L went in and ~4.8L came out. Mobil 1 (5w50), Amsoil (10w40) and Motul 8100 (5w40) - 5L in and 5L out after 10,000kms.

Do you mean that the sludge built up when using the first type of oil and then the detergents from the second type cleaned it all out which caused the engine to use more oil?

I had my Stag for quite a while and tried a number of different oils (Amsoil, Shell, Mobil, Motul, Redline, Valvoline, RP, Penrite, Neo)... all different quality and very different detergents/additives. At the 220,000km service, all 5L of Sougi came out. Take from that what you will

May have had something to do with the quality of the second oil in the work car?

Do you mean that the sludge built up when using the first type of oil and then the detergents from the second type cleaned it all out which caused the engine to use more oil?

I had my Stag for quite a while and tried a number of different oils (Amsoil, Shell, Mobil, Motul, Redline, Valvoline, RP, Penrite, Neo)... all different quality and very different detergents/additives. At the 220,000km service, all 5L of Sougi came out. Take from that what you will

Very interesting. It appears you have used lots of different oils so probably never kept the same one in for more than (say) 5 oil changes. I wonder if you would have the same result if you used just one type for 18 - 20 changes & then swapped brands?

TBO I have no idea what caused the oil consumption in the work car, other than it happened at the same time as I changed mechanics & they use a different brand. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but I have a hard time believing that. Then, only a short time later, the rings were completely gone & the engine was smoking like a James Bond smokescreen, lol.

My M35 doesn't use any oil (well, maybe a negligible amount), but am a little concerned that a change of brands will cause more harm than good. I don't know, is 70-80K long enough for 'build up' to occur. I had the valve cover off yesterday & it was all clean in there. Maybe I should give another brand a try....

Yes, I used 300v Chrono for more than 5 consecutive changes early on and then Sougi towards the end of my ownership for 4 changes (40,000kms).

I don't have the pic on this pc, but when I took the valve cover off (~205,000km mark), it was clean as a whistle...

  • 9 months later...

I use around 5.4lt in mine when I do oil & filter. I don't think 5 litres is quite enough.

The dipstick reading is best taken first thing in the morning after being stopped overnight on a flat surface.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...