Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since visiting several exhaust places I have come across some conflicting arguments about what's best to quieten down my car to a legal level.

First of all, on the exhaust side of things I have the following:

  • RB 25/30 using an R32 RB25DE head on a forged bottom end - 9:1 Static CR
  • Std Intake/exhaust manifolds, valves, etc. etc.
  • 256deg/8.5mm IN/EX Tomei Poncams
  • GT3076R Turbo
  • Bellmouth dump and 3" front pipe combined
  • Highflow cat (tubular design) with a number I cant remember of cells
  • 3" pipe back to a ~4" magnaflow resonator
  • Magnaflow resonator onto a 3" inlet 3" outlet Jun BL 5" Oval rear muffler with a single 3.5" tip

In saying all this, the reason why I went with this setup was because 3 out of 3 well renowned/recommended exhaust shops here in Adelaide advised me to go with a middle resonator out to a big rear muffler.

Currently the sound volume is definitely not legal. I'd approximate it at around 96 dB at 3-4000 RPM.

This is comparing it to my older setup on my RB20DET (stock turbo, 3" turbo back, no middle muffler, rear cannon @ 97 dB).

The current setup is somewhat droney, loud, and difficult to be inconspicuous unless I'm in 5th @ 60kph doing 1700 RPM. In saying this, its a hell of alot quieter than it used to be when I first got the new setup back with the old exhaust system.

The consensus I get around here on the forums is to run as bigger middle muffler as you can, whilst keeping away from cannons/large tipped rear mufflers. I have recently read a recommendation to use as big a Borla/Hooker etc. muffler in the middle wherever it can fit.

Generally speaking, your typical middle/rear muffler (without going into brands) relies on absorption method to dampen/absorb the noise produced. Whilst resonators rely on destructive interference of sound waves to reduce noise. Is there a reason why I was recommended to use a resonator as opposed to a conventional big middle muffler? Is my centre resonator too small to work effectively in my current setup?

Any input is greatly appreciated as rather than spending the money AGAIN to help quieten it down, Id rather get it right...

Cheers,

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399905-exhaust-recommendation/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a straight through 3 inch, with highflow cat, and a varex, open is 102 ish db, shut 77. It is engineered. Laws in sa may be different to nsw though. Keep in mind you cant use alot of power with it shut or bad shit will happen.

In my drive by tests i was 10 db lower than a hilux that drove past before me.

Varex mufflers are in contravention of the ADR legislation unless fitted from factory.

R33's I believe had an option for a "valve" in the exhaust, but Im unsure whether this would warrant the use of a Varex muffler.

In any case, I have a 32, which didn't come with any "valve" from standard; so its a no go for me.

consider integrating a hemholtz chamber or a hidden apexi valve. dynomax makes an integrated mechanical valve muffler that may 'pass'.

also consider adding in a short dual exhaust section with an integrated x-pipe for sound wave cancelation purposes. another idea is a short section of unequal length dual pipes (more sound wave cancelation stuff).

i suspect you were recommended using a resonator (instead of a muffler) for sound quality rather than quantity.

Varex mufflers are in contravention of the ADR legislation unless fitted from factory.

R33's I believe had an option for a "valve" in the exhaust, but Im unsure whether this would warrant the use of a Varex muffler.

In any case, I have a 32, which didn't come with any "valve" from standard; so its a no go for me.

Is everything else engineered? Also current exhaust isn't 'legal' so why isnt varex an option?

varex is a grey area, he said in his eyes, theres no difference in me having a quiet exhaust on and going home and swapping to a huge loud one. Only the time factor. Also not having the controller kept in the car is a good idea. And the idea of an engineers certificate is to override affected ADR's I believe.

ive been having this same problem and have 3 1/2inch dump and system, ive just put a 3inch oval muffler on back and its suprisingly quiet, is a xforce muffler, decent size, the inside of it fish tails so must force the gas into the packing.

I am also interested to know what resonator or muffler to put in middle, the noise level is acceptable now and only really drones a bit at 2000rpm and in higher gears where its loading up slightly.

Ive noticed that an XR6 turbo's exhaust splits the pipe into two going into the cat, is this a good way off quietening it down and allowing good flow? you could have a cat that splits into a y section and then dual muffler at the rear or a massive muffler that has two pipes through it instead of just a single entry and exit, probably might burst the budget though.

so he wants the fastest exhaust, with no noise? lol.

you can only have one or the other (usually)

ok this is what you want. Obveously you'r chasing power by looking at your setup, so obveously 3.5 or 4 inch is the go, or you can splurge on a twin system which is pretty much going to cost double. resonators (hotdogs) decrease drone, everyone should have one. baffled mufflers are going to slow you down, so go the big sports ones, and just get 2 of them. this should be a pretty quiet.

Edited by ClutchBurndout-:(

[quote name=ClutchBurndout- :(' timestamp='1336864848' post='6354154]

so he wants the fastest exhaust, with no noise? lol.

you can only have one or the other (usually)

ok this is what you want. Obveously you'r chasing power by looking at your setup, so obveously 3.5 or 4 inch is the go, or you can splurge on a twin system which is pretty much going to cost double. resonators (hotdogs) decrease drone, everyone should have one. baffled mufflers are going to slow you down, so go the big sports ones, and just get 2 of them. this should be a pretty quiet.

With regards to going 3.5 or 4 inch system - there isnt an immediate need to go this route for the power level I am chasing.

My current setup with the turbo I have has been shown to max out at around 300 ish RWKW on 98 fuel. I am currently making 281 RWKW on a lower reading dyno. Unless I change fuel to E85 (which I am not going to), the current exhaust setup has enough flow to suit. Going 3.5" is just unnecessary IMO.

A twin system is going to shut the car up, but its also going to cost the earth to replace the current system. From what I have seen, using a single setup, it is possible to get it down to legal levels or below. It's just a question of the muffler/resonator size and packaging constraints. Which is why I raised the thread to get some clarification on why I am being told one thing by an exhaust shop and reading a completely different argument on here.

Edited by R32Abuser

To get rid of drone you would be best off tuning a Helmholtz chamber to cancel the unwanted exhaust frequency. Larger muffles will make the whole frequency range quieter but the chamber would target the frequency you want cancelled.

The maths behind reflective sound cancelling is quite complex so its best to make an adjustable length setup if you can. I doubt many muffler shops would help you with it though.

With regards to sizing, you would probably gain over 20kw going up to 3.5 inch at the moment, I gained 30kw but deleted the cat also.

just shove the biggest muffler or mufflers under it you can, 16-18" x 11-12" x 6-8" on the back with your existing middle muffler, if its not quiet enough make the middle muffler bigger, hotdogs don't do much in the way of noise reduction and your 5" rear muffler isn't what I would call a big muffler.

my 3" exhaust was legal (90db as tested by the rta and my engineer) and my 3.5" exhaust is just the same or quieter. the loudest thing when you put your foot down is the pod filter/Turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...