Jump to content
SAU Community

Rebuild Or Replace: M35 Turbo

WTBN

By WTBN,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

Also keep in mind your goals when you're trying to determine what 'sort' of high flow to get; you don't want to end up with a lag monster if it's going to stay as a daily driver. IMHO you'd want it coming onto boost as close as possible to the stock turbo

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

+1, can't agree with you more Duncan.

My Hi-flow doesn't lend itself to picking gaps in traffic, or even driving briskly through a series of tight corners anymore. In day-to-day driving I really miss the response of my old setup.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I did get the 'small one', lol. Turbo lag is very subjective though.

I might update my Hypergear review thread since I've had it a while now & have some more to report.

WTBN Contributor

WTBN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah as I may have eluded to in my first post its stock, and im very happy with it

Id like to keep it as close to that as possible, then again it's very tempting to go for more power when your repairing something of this value.. My thought process is 'well while it's out might as well make the most of the expense!'

Of course with that attitude, upgrading turbos comes more problems if you leave stock driveline etc. so after all - stock rocks. Esp given my recent haul of traffic infringements!

Anyone else had a similar situation - what was the result? high flow, upgrade, rebuild?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had a similar train of thought to you. Whilst the stock turbo (with other mods) suited me perfectly, I needed to fix the turbo & I couldn't bear the thought of replacing it with stock specs. To go to that much trouble you should get an upgrade, right?

Don't worry about the driveline. Except for a Transgo shift kit & tranny cooler which is highly recommended, the rest of the driveline will be more than adequate for the power levels of a hi-flow.

Edited by Commsman
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I did get the 'small one', lol. Turbo lag is very subjective though.

I might update my Hypergear review thread since I've had it a while now & have some more to report.

No. You've got the bigger one. I'm currently building a small one at moment, I will post come comparison in wheel profile.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yeah as I may have eluded to in my first post its stock, and im very happy with it

Id like to keep it as close to that as possible, then again it's very tempting to go for more power when your repairing something of this value.. My thought process is 'well while it's out might as well make the most of the expense!'

Of course with that attitude, upgrading turbos comes more problems if you leave stock driveline etc. so after all - stock rocks. Esp given my recent haul of traffic infringements!

Anyone else had a similar situation - what was the result? high flow, upgrade, rebuild?

If you aren't going to tune it, definitely remain as close to the stock sized rear turbine wheel as you can. Our M35 doesn't react well to lag as it already feels very lethargic down low.

There are a few things you would need to do at a minimum if you went for the larger wheels imo, a 3 inch turbo back exhaust won't choke the turbo like the stock one, Emanage Ultimate with tune will bring it on much earlier, a Walbro/Deatschworks fuel pump hardwired, Brake cut mod and the shift kit installed in the gearbox. It's not a huge list but even then you will be injector and intake limited to around 220kw. There is no point getting a turbo capable of 260kw unless you plan to use it. (the stock turbo would be good for 200 or so if you were game)

I have had 5 different turbo's on my car now, the stock one definitely felt the best for everyday driving but the bug has bitten. lol.

STAG250 Community Regular

STAG250

Posted
Posted

I hope the mechanics you use are cleaning out the banjo bolt or drilling it out larger, otherwise you could have another failure down the track. There is no way a legitimate 75k turbo will have failed if the oil supply hasn't blocked somehow.

Engine out? lol. Bugger that, unless you blow a head gasket. :(

What did yours end up costing in total STAG250? I have a feeling the mechanic's quote (2.5k) above was very low for an engine out job...

I posted a thread with pics back in 2007 but I can't find it on search. Over 3 grand kiwi with a bit extra thrown in. turned into a real saga with turbo needing to be sent back to recon man because of wrong measurements of this or that. Been ok since though. A bit laggy but no real experience of properly working stock to compare it to. Has the flutter on waste gate sound effect.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, I did get the 'small one', lol. Turbo lag is very subjective though.

I might update my Hypergear review thread since I've had it a while now & have some more to report.

No. You've got the bigger one. I'm currently building a small one at moment, I will post come comparison in wheel profile.

Uh, Oh; waiting for Leon to see this...

Edited by Daleo
Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

No. You've got the bigger one. I'm currently building a small one at moment, I will post come comparison in wheel profile.

Uh, Oh; waiting for Leon to see this...

Cheers Dale, I just saw it :O . Well, that would explain the lag I'm experiencing.

Depending on future reviews, I'd have to say the smaller one could be the best choice for guys not wanting a 'drag car'. Sort of wish....

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Cheers Dale, I just saw it :O . Well, that would explain the lag I'm experiencing.

Depending on future reviews, I'd have to say the smaller one could be the best choice for guys not wanting a 'drag car'. Sort of wish....

If it's really not what you want Leon, we may be able to organise a swap later Leon. Be happy to get mine rebuilt with the smaller core and get it shipped to you. Be interested to see the numbers the smaller core puts out, I'd be happy to compromise on top end power to an extent if I was going to get better response, just depends on how much of a compromise.

ironpaw Veteran

ironpaw

Posted
Posted

I have had 5 different turbo's on my car now, the stock one definitely felt the best for everyday driving but the bug has bitten. lol.

I think your old one (pre GTX) isn't too bad. I can't tell a huge difference between that and the stocker.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

If it's really not what you want Leon, we may be able to organise a swap later Leon. Be happy to get mine rebuilt with the smaller core and get it shipped to you. Be interested to see the numbers the smaller core puts out, I'd be happy to compromise on top end power to an extent if I was going to get better response, just depends on how much of a compromise.

Thanks for the thought Ryan. That may be on the cards later if my 'situation' remains static.

It's amusing (to me) how my mind works. Now that I know I have the bigger turbo, the amount of lag seems more acceptable to me somehow, lol.

Don't get me wrong, it still doesn't suit my driving style, or the type of roads I like to drive on, but I was more unimpressed when I thought I was using the 'responsive' hi-flow. Knowing what it is now sort of gives me an excuse for the lag.

Anyway, very keen to find out what the other one is like too,

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I agree Ironpaw, the stage one sierra comes on around 3k once tuned, that would be the laggiest I would go to remain drivable. Essentially you want GTRS/GT2835 sized wheels in the stock housings, no bigger unless you want a long list of supporting mods. If you work with Stao he can make whatever you desire at the end of the day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      Rb25det timing belt position on cam gear

      By drifter17a · Posted

      I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • GTSBoy
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • GTSBoy
      Hiya!

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Curlyfred
      Hiya!

      By Curlyfred · Posted

      Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • AdiR34
      ENR34 - Inner Tie Rod is unique part! Replacement?

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...