Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Torque figures above look right but I'd have to check my book. GTR would be tighter due to the metric superfine thread it uses (18x1.5) and the fact it's an 18mm bolt instead of a 16mm bolt in the 'lesser' models.

Remember boys and girls, it's all about correct tension, not lots of tension.

That 18mm bolt is definitely doing to need that much torque to apply the correct stretch to give it the exact preload it needs to never come off.

I've seen too many come loose recently....but come to think of it....all GTRs

The torque figure for an RB26 harmonic balancer bolt seems a little excessive... But its what the manual says.

The Torque figure for the 'lesser' models just doesn't seem like enough IMO.

my mechanic just got me a new r34 balancer through nissan for just over 400 buks... Cheaper then aftermarket

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-harmonic-balancer-genuine-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-940.html

R33 and R34 GTR $421..

So the question on everyones lips (or mine) is what exactly makes them shit?

I can understand that newer designs/materials etc could make a better one - hence why I bought an ATI in the first place, but I am interested in why you say that - how does one 'measure' how well one damper is compared to another without some pretty special equipment?

ie something in your experience must have lead you to this?

Yes, I took a balancer off, turned it around and saw it had cracked through 90% of the rubber damper and thought to myself....ohh, that's shit. I'd better replace that shit balancer

They aren't shit due to material/design. They are shit due to age. Rubber doesn't last forever and when people realise that half the reason they are breaking oil pumps or damaging engines is due to their stock balancer, they will all start running out to buy one. Sean revs his GTR to 10k, 600hp at the wheels and drives it like a stolen VL. Still going 2.5 years later......but then again, he can tune good too

If you could pick only 3 things to modify in the engine of a GTR to make it near bulletproof at 600-800hp it's : 2. Billet oil pump gear 3. Good aftermarket harmonic balancer

We have proven it many many times.

This is what I’ve always found interesting point of discussion :)

I have neither of the above on any of my motors in the last 8 years (3 now). Nor do most others down here, with plenty of cars in the 370-420rwkw range so not just luck, all see regular track work with 8200-8400rpm limit and 200km/h+

Never throw belts using OEM Nissan. Gates ones were causing problems and also Daikin (I think?? going back a few years now when i spat 2 of them in 100kms).

(I’ll find out if new Nissan balancers get used in the builds, I suspect the answer will be yes)

...you know.... that hurts a little. I brought it on myself, but still.. where's the love.

Well to be fair, the only event we competed against eachother in, you beat me convincingly.. so... :3some: feel the love ;)

Only difference between the R32 and R33/R34 GTR balancers is the offset of the power steering pulley.

The power steering pulley R32 balancer protrudes a little further.

If you have an R32 power steering pump (hydraulic Hicas) Then you must use an R32 balancer.

Using the incorrect balancer for a specific pump will cause belts to be throen as the pulleys are mis-aligned.

Only difference between the R32 and R33/R34 GTR balancers is the offset of the power steering pulley.

The power steering pulley R32 balancer protrudes a little further.

If you have an R32 power steering pump (hydraulic Hicas) Then you must use an R32 balancer.

Using the incorrect balancer for a specific pump will cause belts to be throen as the pulleys are mis-aligned.

Do you know how much further the r32 gtr comes forward compared to r33/34?

R32gtst pump/ bracket sits 10mm further back than r32 gtr

I have a theory.... Might be incorrect... but,

talking to the bloke that blue printed my crank, he said to bead blast the coating off where belt runs, and machine the front lip down... Apparently it will help alot.

Does make sense, see old machinery uses a flat belt drive (1920's) and the belt climbs to the highest point on the roller/pulley, so I figure the tall lip actually works against us in making the belt climb up it, so try this I will...

Does it have to be oem nissan or a standard gates one or the like?

And How tight helps for p/s belt? normal tight or uber tight?

The torque figure for an RB26 harmonic balancer bolt seems a little excessive... But its what the manual says.

The Torque figure for the 'lesser' models just doesn't seem like enough IMO.

To illustrate what Dan was saying, here's a table that shows how bolt class, thread pitch and diameter effect required torque. Notice the effect of lubing the thread, so pay attention to whether the shop manual is instructing you to use engine oil on the bolt (eg flywheel bolts),

http://www.cncexpo.c...ltTorqueNm.aspx

This is what I’ve always found interesting point of discussion :)

I have neither of the above on any of my motors in the last 8 years (3 now). Nor do most others down here, with plenty of cars in the 370-420rwkw range so not just luck, all see regular track work with 8200-8400rpm limit and 200km/h+

Never throw belts using OEM Nissan. Gates ones were causing problems and also Daikin (I think?? going back a few years now when i spat 2 of them in 100kms).

(I’ll find out if new Nissan balancers get used in the builds, I suspect the answer will be yes)

the japs said to me years ago, good balancer number one priority.. New oem at minimum and a really high rev limit (8800 if you look at any jap remap or decent shop tune) so you dont hit it accidentally... problem is here plebs seem to think the rev limiter is a gear change light... so its not that easy :)

the japs said to me years ago, good balancer number one priority.. New oem at minimum and a really high rev limit (8800 if you look at any jap remap or decent shop tune) so you dont hit it accidentally... problem is here plebs seem to think the rev limiter is a gear change light... so its not that easy :)

This man, he knows!

the japs said to me years ago, good balancer number one priority.. New oem at minimum and a really high rev limit (8800 if you look at any jap remap or decent shop tune) so you dont hit it accidentally... problem is here plebs seem to think the rev limiter is a gear change light... so its not that easy :)

So what ballancer do the japs recommend or use as prefference.?

In regards to rev limit, do you mean set it real high so you dont hit it?

What happens if you manage to get it to spin to the higher limit, wouldnt that be worse?

Edited by sky30

Another option is to pull a whole heap of timing out a few hundred RPM before the cut. That way if you do it it, it's not 'as hard'.

Oorrr just don't be a muppet and avoid it anyway.

Hitting rev limiter is not good for an engine. Hence why the japs set the limit so high so that the chances of hitting rev limiter are lower.

Does anyone know the thread size, pitch and tensile grade of the harmonic balancer bolt for an RB25?

Who uses loktite to do these bolts up. I know the manual makes no reference to using a lubricant on the thread when torquing nor does it say to use loktite.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List:
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...