Jump to content
SAU Community

The Complete Ethanol Thread

Cowboy1600

By Cowboy1600,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 8 months later...
  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Hanaldo
Hanaldo

Hey all, Just wanted to ask a quick one about fuel filters. What are you guys using these days? I've read a number of older posts about using the standard Ryco filters, some good some bad. I'm also a

NYTSKY
NYTSKY

I fill my car up at my local United. Give it a blast in 3rd gear, if AFRs are between 11.2 and 11.8 keep thrashing.

discopotato03
discopotato03

I reckon that if tuners like reliable engines the only way you'll ever get a good flex tune is blending low octane ULP with ethanol . Hard to imagine Caltex and United using 98 PULP in their E70/E85 p

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just wanted to ask a quick one about fuel filters. What are you guys using these days? I've read a number of older posts about using the standard Ryco filters, some good some bad. I'm also aware of the situation with needing to replace fuel filters regularly just after switching to E85 until the system is clean. So right now I'm considering three paths.

1. I stick with the Ryco paper filter and just replace it regularly.

2. I stick with the Ryco paper filter for now, then after my first tank of E85, switch to a billet filter (Aeroflow, Speedflow, Proflow, or similar?)

3. I switch to a billet filter now, before getting the E85 tune.

At the moment I'm leaning towards option 3 for a couple of reasons. Firstly I have the standard feed line to my Ryco filter, then a -6 fuel line to my HKS rail. It works, but considering the Ryco filter has 5/16 push on barbs, it doesn't quite fit as nicely as I would like. With the billet filter I could use a -6 AN fitting on one side, and a -6 AN to 5/16 tail barb on the other side. Second, if I need to replace filters regularly, would a washable element not be a cost effective solution?

  • Like 1
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I use twin -6 an stainless mesh filters, Proflow ones, they cost around $100 each though plus fittings. No issues in 3 years daily driving on United mainly, and they have never been cleaned.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Do you know what micron filter element you've got, Scott?

Another one, where are people mounting their GM flex-fuel sensors? I've got the flow through type and I thought I could mount it between my regulator and return line in the engine bay, but I can't see it happening. This thing is quite hard to mount with the factory hard lines :glare:

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Do you know what micron filter element you've got, Scott?

Another one, where are people mounting their GM flex-fuel sensors? I've got the flow through type and I thought I could mount it between my regulator and return line in the engine bay, but I can't see it happening. This thing is quite hard to mount with the factory hard lines :glare:

In the boot. Tee off the return line just before it drops back into the tank. Hidden sensor FTW!

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

In the boot. Tee off the return line just before it drops back into the tank. Hidden sensor FTW!

Yeh? I did think of putting it there. Could maybe work something out... All seems a bit tight though, I can hardly see my return line let alone find a place to put two tees into it :/

Edited by Hanaldo
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Yeh? I did think of putting it there. Could maybe work something out... All seems a bit tight though, I can hardly see my return line let alone find a place to put two tees into it :/

BRB, taking a photo for you :P

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I think it's 100 micron mesh.

Don't you want the sensor as close to the rail as possible?

I can't see how it makes any difference. Either way, once the fuel is mixed, it's the same. Just dontn belt it until you see the reading settle.
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Ah, you got the little small thing.

Yeh so they say. Its fkn massive! Ideally I would mount it close to the rail, but I can't see it fitting anywhere unless I remote mount the sensor and run like 2 meters of hose to it :/

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Yeh so they say. Its fkn massive! Ideally I would mount it close to the rail, but I can't see it fitting anywhere unless I remote mount the sensor and run like 2 meters of hose to it :/

Under the car?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Just curious why I've seen a few setups with the flex sensor mounted in the boot? Another car I've seen setup by UNIGROUP has the flex sensor in the boot too?

What are the benefits? Is it just a convenience thing or heat stress thing?

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Just curious why I've seen a few setups with the flex sensor mounted in the boot? Another car I've seen setup by UNIGROUP has the flex sensor in the boot too?

What are the benefits? Is it just a convenience thing or heat stress thing?

It's one less thing in an already full engine bay. No other reason.
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

How many free 0-5V inputs do you need on your ecu? The zeitronix Eca kit outputs fuel temp and ethanol % doesn't it?

1 I'm pretty sure. And yes fuel temp too. You can set up fuel temp correction too

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Under the car?

Yeh this is what I was thinking of. It would be so much easier if I could cut the standard hard line, but I don't want to lose the flared end.

I think the easiest thing would just be to run a longer length of hose to the sensor. Just seems such a messy way of doing it :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...