Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I miss having a street driven R35 and am looking at some on carsales. I am obviously looking to cast the net a bit wider though in here.

probably an 09. looking for low cost but very good interior and exterior. milage not such a problem as the engine, tranny and a host of other things will be given the boot for something more substantial.

dont know why but I have an itch for super silver or black

let me know if any of you know of a car or yourself have one you are selling that fits the billfor sale

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There were half a dozen 09's on and around the 100k mark a few months back, but these seem to have been snapped up. I think you'll be hard pressed getting one around the 100-105k mark now that the 2012 price has pushed the 200k envelope... Last time I looked the high kms 09's were in the 115k range...

I think it would be fair to say that the prices you see listed on carsales are not what they sell for.

Sure thing. When I was in the hunt here in Brisvegas, I had to go as far as WA to get the right price.. good luck with your hunt! :thumbsup:

Edited by Wardski

Anyone asking over 100k for an 09 out of warranty has got their hand on it!

Just like the owners asking $70-90k for 12-13 year old R34 GT-R Vspecs??........

Mark is right, market will dictate. Has to be noted that as the price rises for the 2012's and beyond, so to will values (warranty or not) of the 2nd hand market. It's just the way of the world.

Of course there will be those that need to sell ASAP (like Magic Nissan in WA who wanted to be rid of their new 2010 which had been sitting around in the show room for 14 months which I was thankful to pick up for a smashing price), and ultimately that is the deal worth waiting for..

Edited by Wardski

Lol Wardski, if you think your R35 is going to be worth 70k when it's 12 years old, I think you know where your hand is! But then again if you leave it in the garage until then it maybe possible! :)

Hands are above the table... most of the time.. lol.. For sure if I'm doing 4000kms a year in my GTR, she'll be sub 50,000kms at 12 years.

In the end, who knows what the market will do. I'm amazed at how strong the dollars have stuck to both Nissan GTR R34's and even low kms Australian delivered Mitsubishi Evo IX's..

Just like the owners asking $70-90k for 12-13 year old R34 GT-R Vspecs??........

You can have a R34 GTR VSpec landed and complied for a LOT less than dreamer Carsales prices would have you believe. They simply aren't selling either if you watch them because they are way over priced in most instances. Come 6-12 months time the owners will wonder why they "didnt take the offer" they were given today, when they end up selling for even less... That's the way of the world :)

It's the 34 NURs / LE's that are still fetching high prices as the price in Japan is going up, but then they are rare - where a R35 - simply isn't.

35 pricing will continue to drop, it ain't about to go up.

35 pricing will continue to drop, it ain't about to go up.

I don't think anyone would disagree with this statement, but I highly doubt the 09's will drop into the $80-90k price bracket anytime soon. Sure they're not rare, but for the coin they're going for today, they're so much more bang for your buck than the Ltd Edition R34's..

I have seen some high kms 09's go for just under $100 - I see the incremental decrease in value being $3-5k a year, so give or take 3-4 years and we'll see the 09's in the $80-90k price range (dependent on kms/abuse/condition).

Are R35's depreciating faster than expected due to other things say...maintenance? Is your typical maintenance cost the same or just a tad higher than a R34 GTR (assuming stock cars)? I know for a fact that parts/aftermarket mods are much more than your predecessors. Or this is just a typical cycle when r34's were asking for an arm and a leg when first released?

Are R35's depreciating faster than expected due to other things say...maintenance? Is your typical maintenance cost the same or just a tad higher than a R34 GTR (assuming stock cars)? I know for a fact that parts/aftermarket mods are much more than your predecessors. Or this is just a typical cycle when r34's were asking for an arm and a leg when first released?

Its hard to tell what the market is doing at the moment. Maintenance is fairly reasonable aside from major services (transmission oil), tyres and brakes, and I wouldn't expect this to affect car values..

What will be interesting is to see how much those 2009 model R35's out of warranty will go for in a years time - since the main concern with 2nd hand stock + modified GT-R R35's is the transmission failures (solenoids, gaskets, pressure sensors, shift forks, circlips, etc, etc...) and bell housings... These 2 points will be the main depreciation concerns as Nissan asks for $23,000 rubies to swap one out outside of the warranty period. I think it's just a shame that Nissan don't offer the same warranty here as the US (5 years) and there's still no "official" warranty extension available to purchase (rumours that Allianz was working with Nissan on offering an extension to owners seems to be 100% BS at this time).

For sure if the belly falls out of the "out of warranty" 2009 models, I'll be looking to move mine on around the 2.5 years ownership mark

Alternatively, I am not sure if you can cover "specific" parts of a car with vehicle insurance for mechanical failure, so that you don't have to have $23k sitting in a bank account in the unlikely event a transmission fails....

Edited by Wardski

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...