Jump to content
SAU Community

Earthing For Rb25

hardsteppa

By hardsteppa,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

So in trying to track down my intermittent idle issue on my R33 gtst, I noticed that the exhaust manifold ground lead looks pretty old and frayed. I know 2 things about wiring, one that a good ground is important and the other is I know pretty much nothing else about wiring...so was going to run some ground leads from the block to chassis...could someone point me in the right direction of the best sort of wire to use, and best points to do it from? Like I said don't know alot about it, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406535-earthing-for-rb25/
Share on other sites
GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
Posted (edited)

When I took the manifold off i noticed how charred it was @ turbo end. Pulled it straight to measure for a replacement, it was dust. Fell to bits. I replaced it with another earth strap. Used a copper lug and is fine with the heat. Put a multi from heat shield to chassis point and check resistance to see if it needs replacing.

If I understand correctly the earth strap is to prevent electrolysis, I doubt it would help your idle.

Edited by GoHard
Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

I would check your coil packs also. If your talking about the wire from the heat shield to the body then that is to stop static electricity that might come off from around the turbo from it spinning.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

My car came with an aftermarket earthing kit which has about 8 leads going to various places on the block and the cas bolts etc. There are a few around so I guess there is a market for them but didn't do a before and after so don't know how really usefull they are. But definitely replace any obviously dodgy connections.

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 years later...
silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted

I noticed my earth wire was disconnected when I attempted to do some work, but the wire was yanked off with the bolt still attached to the exhaust manifold heat shield. I used an aluminium connector to replace it from super cheap like this, will it melt? I was worried as the old one is steel. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-electrical-terminals---ring-eye-5.0mm-red-25-pack/120047.html?cgid=SCA01060604#start=48

 

I removed the rubber of course as that's going to melt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...