Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, my fuel system keeps getting hot and I can't figure it out.

Car & Fuel system details:

*Highly modified RB25 with a Wolf 3D V4 ECU

*The fuel system is a Walbro in tank pump with pick up > 10L surge tank > x2 Bosch 044 pumps > twin entry fuel rail > ID 1000cc injectors > return line back to surge tank.

Problems:

*The two Bosh pumps slowly get noisier the further I drive, their not running dry as I keep checking the surge tank and it's always full, after an hour drive you can hear the wine outside the car.

Notes:

*The pumps, surge tank, fuel rail and intake plenum are all hot to touch.

*None of the fuel system is near the exhaust or heat source.

*Pumps are quiet on start up and for the first 20mins of driving before slowly getting louder.

*No blockages in pipes, brand new fuel filters and fuel reg, fuel pressure is stable, constant and accurate.

*I had the car re tuned from avgas to pump fuel (BP Ultimate) 2 months ago in Tas and have since moved to QLD and know that I need to get the tune touched up for the temperatures and humidity levels etc up here.

Any ideas or suggestions for my problem? pumps on their way out, AFR needs adjusting, or it's just in the tune etc?

Thanks for any help and suggestions guys =)

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407783-help-fuel-system-getting-hot/
Share on other sites

Its just what happens, the fuel heats up as it goes through the hot engine bay and returns to the small surge tank only to go through the hot engine bay again. Perhaps insulating the fuel rail or adding a fuel cooler to the return line would help?

My Walbro's do the same thing, although it takes a lot longer to heat up all the fuel in my 80L tank. After an hour or more of driving the pumps sound very noisy but they still work fine.

^^^as above quite normal. You will find your fuel rail pretty close to a heat source. My Bosch 044 is as noisy as.

Even my work truck will warm up its 300L fuel tank after a while.

You can get fuel coolers (quite expensive) or just put any kind of cooler (trans cooler, oil cooler) in the return line if you want.

As above or a fuel pump controller to turn the pumps down when cruising

This.

If just driving around realistically you only need one pump running so have a trigger setup based on speed/throttle/RPM with the Wolf, I'd imagine it would have an input to do something like that.

How have you got your surge tank plumbed?

IE, from top to botton the surge tank is it;

Return to tank > Return from fuel rail > Lift pump in > Main pump feed.

OR

Return from rail > Return to tank > Lift pump in > Main pump feed?

it's Return from rail > Return to tank > Lift pump in > Main pump feed.

the fuel rail is a custom made 1inch square solid block of aluminium that's been drilled through the same diameter as the hose fittings threads. pic below.

My turbo doesn't kick in till 4,000 RPM so I barely use that around the street.

The cooler sounds like a viable idea.

As for the boot it's standard, only it's been stripped out, surge tank is on the floor on the right side.

so it sounds like my problem is normal then... but is it normal for the rail and intake to get hot enough to be really uncomfortable to hold your hand on? like a kettle type hot...

I rekon your problem could lie with that giant fuel rail.

If that was a solid billet and youve drilled a 1/2inch hole down the guts of it you have a massive block of alloy to retain heat within.

A thinner extruded rail will dissipate heat alot faster than a solid block of that size.

You may find that the rail is absorbing engine bay heat and dispersing it into the fuel, there is alot of unessisary alloy there to retain temp.

I had the same problem during summer, bought a small cheap transmission cooler from super shit and put it in the return line near the diff and it's been fine since. Also swapping the return from the rail and the overflow to the main tank around will make it take a little longer to get hot.

An old trick is to put a hobbs switch in the cold side piping that's set for -say- 14psi, that switches the earth on the relay for the second pump. Then it's only running when needed.

044's do add a lot of heat, mine are set the same as above and still warm the fuel a bit.

Apparently a single A1000 runs cooler, and much quieter than two 044's, but I haven't personally seen that setup running so can't say for sure.

I'd be working out what my maximum fuel requirement was and seeing if you've overkilled your fuel system . Excess fuel going round in circles achieves nothing other than to transfer heat throughout the fuel system . In a lot of ways surge tanks are a PITA and if the original tank could be made to avoid fuel surge you would not need them .

JE found out many years ago that using a roller cell high pressure pump as a lift pump transfered more fuel to the surge tank from you main tank so what was in the surge tank did less circles from tank to rail and back etc etc .

Ideally you want the least material in a metal fuel rail because the less material there is the less heat it can absorb from the engine/bay which means less heat absorbed by the fuel running through it . I'm not sure what injectors you're using but if they are side feeds is the std rail that bad ?

A .

Edited by discopotato03

Considering your engine will consume 0.2-0.4l/min to make between 20-40kw (enough for cruising) and your constantly sending minimum 7l/min to the front - what do you think will happen.... Combine that with massive fuel rail block that's close to engine temp of course your going to have issues.

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright, cheers for the help guys, appreciate it =) I'll try a few things and see if I can sort out or at least help the problem.

Oh and their full length Injector Dynamics 1000cc Full Length

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...