Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

32 GTR owner Paul... (heavy stirring/sarcasm).

Be interesting to see how a Racepace GTR goes @ Wakefield in Nov against interstate GTR's, the proof of the pudding might well be in the eating perhaps? :merli:

Yea but knowing race pace, you mite as well buy a jap kit, because it will most Likly be cheaper than the gold plated parts u get from race pace

I do believe the point of developing their own is substancially lower the cost compared to say a full HKS kit, which we can all agree is quite exxy :thumbsup:

That's a bit low Deano.

Atleast they work... IE the exhausts unlike the junk you get off the shelf from Japan. :P.

Yea true, but they super expensive dude, $5600 I got quoted for a mild steel 4inch system, plus postage.

That's a lot of cash for a exhaust man.

Yea true, but they super expensive dude, $5600 I got quoted for a mild steel 4inch system, plus postage.

That's a lot of cash for a exhaust man.

Thats not a lot of cash that is a joke.

Nothing special about a stroker kit, especially a 2.8... an extra 200cc is exactly that no secrets although it is nice to claim there is so you can claim a premium price!

To the OP, if you were serious I would get in touch with GTRNUR, what he has done with his RB26/30 I believe to be one of the best ways to go.

Yeah how dare HKS charge such an exorbitant amount for a 2.8l kit when its 200cc

Yea true, but they super expensive dude, $5600 I got quoted for a mild steel 4inch system, plus postage.

That's a lot of cash for a exhaust man.

:blink:

well, for spool to supply me a stroker kit, and a FULL gasket kit with a tomei HG, oil restrictor and billet oil pump gears it was under 6k delivered to my door. I dunno if i got lucky or i was just charged the normal price, but in my books, thats a pretty sweet deal.

Blah Blah Blah Blah :)

Nothing like pre-event shit talking :D

A billet fully counterweight crank is $3-4k (regardless of stroke).. plus rods, plus pistons.

Made where though?

In Asia where HKS have their cranks made... I do believe it's not that high.

Nothing like pre-event shit talking :D

Made where though?

In Asia where HKS have their cranks made... I do believe it's not that high.

Good question... have you been there to know the answer? Or do they still use Farndon in the UK to make crankshafts.

Farndon make cranks (and other engine components) for a few Jap co's, such as HKS, JUN and A'Pex'i. I am sure that they still make them for HKS - Step 3 billet cranks; The forged Step 0 to Step 2 aren't made by Farndon. But who knows....could be made in Taiwan or China these days :D

well, for spool to supply me a stroker kit, and a FULL gasket kit with a tomei HG, oil restrictor and billet oil pump gears it was under 6k delivered to my door. I dunno if i got lucky or i was just charged the normal price, but in my books, thats a pretty sweet deal.

That seams like a pritty sweet deal

Farndon make cranks (and other engine components) for a few Jap co's, such as HKS, JUN and A'Pex'i. I am sure that they still make them for HKS - Step 3 billet cranks; The forged Step 0 to Step 2 aren't made by Farndon. But who knows....could be made in Taiwan or China these days :D

Indeed! From what I can gather, HKS RB stroker cranks have been coming out of Asia for quite a while ;)

Whether that's all of the line up, or just some, remains to be seen.

well, for spool to supply me a stroker kit, and a FULL gasket kit with a tomei HG, oil restrictor and billet oil pump gears it was under 6k delivered to my door. I dunno if i got lucky or i was just charged the normal price, but in my books, thats a pretty sweet deal.

Pretty sure others have said similar before so sounds resonable, although only 2.7 - wish for same $$ there was a 2.8/2.9 - would be even better value.

Means the cranks aren't costing anywhere near 4k either way when you can get that price delivered. Even 3k you'd argue! :)

Indeed! From what I can gather, HKS RB stroker cranks have been coming out of Asia for quite a while ;)

Whether that's all of the line up, or just some, remains to be seen.

Pretty sure others have said similar before so sounds resonable, although only 2.7 - wish for same $$ there was a 2.8/2.9 - would be even better value.

Means the cranks aren't costing anywhere near 4k either way when you can get that price delivered. Even 3k you'd argue! :)

What u mean? The spool kits are 2.8 as far as I no

A lot of them advertise 90 mm or whatever but fail to say the smallest point in the muffler is 2.5 inch.

depends on the exhaust right? I got a mate with a HKS Hi-Power and I'm sure it's the same size all through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...