Jump to content
SAU Community

Bnr32 - Once In A Lifetime Build All Gt-R Owners Must See

$$slowmedown
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 647
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Lakeside Classic - July 26, 2015 None of this build would of been possible without the man sitting next to me. Endless hours spent together talking, planning, working. Forever thankful Dad.

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

Cheers for the input guys, appreciated as always. Have been flat out getting this thing finished off over the last few weeks. Will get an update up asap!! For now I found these

$$slowmedown
$$slowmedown

I'll just leave this here...

Posted Images

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nice job Robbie.

Getting that rear subframe all cleaned up takes some time and patience.

Good job.

Always love OEM parts.

Cheers Anthony. Sure does. Need some more time to get stuck in and get it and the front one apart and then start on paint prep

awesome work. Loving the Tein strut braces!

Thanks mate, yeah they should do the job!

Quick update:

Got the bay painted today!! What a mission...not looking forward to trying to keep it looking like this when putting motor and everything else back in

Plan is to have motor, gearbox and complete front subframe finished and assembled and lower the body down onto them

Bit worried about getting the motor up through the middle of the chassis without scratching it

Anyone with experience, please let me know your thoughts

IMG_6463.JPG

IMG_6465.JPG

IMG_6466.JPG

IMG_6472.JPG

IMG_6474.JPG

IMG_6475.JPG

IMG_6476.JPG

IMG_6479.JPG

  • Like 1
gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

I put my subframe and engine in from underneath. The only thing I dould think of would be to stick some carpet or something similar on the rails when sliding the engine up.

If you're going to do it with the intake manifold and turbo's bolted on then it'll be a bloody tight squeeze. I had probably less than a 10mm gap each side.

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lovin this build!

Cheers Nick, doing my best with photos...wish I had the patience to do more and had a decent camera!

Hey just a quick question where abouts are you getting all your parts from, mainly the OEM parts?

PM sent

I put my subframe and engine in from underneath. The only thing I dould think of would be to stick some carpet or something similar on the rails when sliding the engine up.

If you're going to do it with the intake manifold and turbo's bolted on then it'll be a bloody tight squeeze. I had probably less than a 10mm gap each side.

Nice. Cheers for the input Michael. How did it work out for you? You get it done with no paint damage...would it help leaving the intake mani off and just bolt that on once in?

Just take your time and make sure it's lined up right. Shouldn't be too difficult when you think about it as this is how they do it when the cars are built.

My thoughts exactly Michael

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

I got a tiny bit of paint scrapage but nothing serious. My bay was pretty rough anyway so I wasn't too cautious.

The Inlet is a bit of a pain to work with and is easier to bolt on when the motor is out but I think the front diff hangs out almost as much as the manifold does anyway.

If it was me I'd just bolt it all on before hand again.

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mate great build so far.

not sure I'd say "1 OF A" kind..

perhaps you haven't seen this?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/140022-my-restoration/

Thanks mate. I am confident mine will not be the same as that 32R...

Plates suit any unique car not just mine so might be worth something to someone down the track...

Got the rear cleared out of and have a few problems/questions...

IMG_6508.JPG

IMG_6509.JPG

IMG_6512.JPG

Ok so questions:

1. Rear seatbelts - factory Nissan ones were still in car and mounted but had been cut....Aus seat belts had been installed (I assume as part of compliance) but they were mounted through the parcel shelf....these were mounted so poorly my jaw dropped upon inspection!

How are your rear seat belts mounted?

I have another 32R here and it has the OEM Nissan rear belts in it and looked safe and sound.

2. Rear interior trim removal - quarter panel glass is coming out and need to sort these seat belts, how do you remove this without breaking it to pieces???

Or is it just get it out and bin it then order new stuff?

3. Rear wiper removal - best just to source and install the the N1 grommet or whatever it is?

Thanks in advance, appreciate your input! Cheers

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also, not sure what to do with rear parcel shelf...

Was just going to strip the fugly carpet junk off and get black suede or similiar to suit rest of interior....anyone got any suggestions...perhaps something cool I don't even know about?

Suppose just see what upholsterers say...

$$slowmedown Mentor

$$slowmedown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get a glass guy to come and remove your rear quarter windows, if they do break them they might even pay to replace the glass.

Cheers. Onto it Michael, got an unreal glass guy, he is organising new front windscreen etc as well

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks mate. I am confident mine will not be the same as that 32R...

Plates suit any unique car not just mine so might be worth something to someone down the track...

Got the rear cleared out of and have a few problems/questions...

IMG_6508.JPG

IMG_6509.JPG

IMG_6512.JPG

Ok so questions:

1. Rear seatbelts - factory Nissan ones were still in car and mounted but had been cut....Aus seat belts had been installed (I assume as part of compliance) but they were mounted through the parcel shelf....these were mounted so poorly my jaw dropped upon inspection!

How are your rear seat belts mounted?

I have another 32R here and it has the OEM Nissan rear belts in it and looked safe and sound.

2. Rear interior trim removal - quarter panel glass is coming out and need to sort these seat belts, how do you remove this without breaking it to pieces???

Or is it just get it out and bin it then order new stuff?

3. Rear wiper removal - best just to source and install the the N1 grommet or whatever it is?

Thanks in advance, appreciate your input! Cheers

Robbie with the rear wiper removal all you need is this

MoonfaceWiperHoleCapA_zpsea604f71.jpg

Costs $25 - fills in 36mm hole gap which is what you need and part number is OWC36

I am going to buy one so if you want one let me know as postage will be even cheaper.

I also got the matching N1 windscreen washer bottle, but is not mandatory.

For the rear seat belts I recall them being attached on the rear quarter panel pillars but I will have to check that again.

New seat belts can be obtained by Klippan Australia - I have the part numbers somewhere in my garage. I got it from Cheapa Autospares a few years back as Super Cheap did not stock them anymore.

Not sure about the rear quarter glass panel - I just know that they do not come in tinted versions anymore from Nissan so don't break it.

Edited by Ants
Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

Robbie with the rear wiper removal all you need is this

MoonfaceWiperHoleCapA_zpsea604f71.jpg

Costs $25 - fills in 36mm hole gap which is what you need and part number is OWC36

I am going to buy one so if you want one let me know as postage will be even cheaper.

I also got the matching N1 windscreen washer bottle, but is not mandatory.

For the rear seat belts I recall them being attached on the rear quarter panel pillars but I will have to check that again.

New seat belts can be obtained by Klippan Australia - I have the part numbers somewhere in my garage. I got it from Cheapa Autospares a few years back as Super Cheap did not stock them anymore.

Not sure about the rear quarter glass panel - I just know that they do not come in tinted versions anymore from Nissan so don't break it.

Correction - part number for wiper hole delete cap is OWC30 - fills in 30mm hole which is accurate for the R32 Skyline.

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      R32 Nostalgia

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • niZmO_Man
      New R32 owner soon

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • Duncan
      1992 R32 GT-R Race Car

      By Duncan · Posted

      heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • Duncan
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Duncan · Posted

      meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...