Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a r34 GTT and i want to remove the charcoal canister to tidy up the engine bay.

I have tried searching and have read a bit but i'm still not positive on what needs to vent and block. From what i understand they should all be blocked besides the one coming from the tank which should be vented with a breather?

I would like to remove all the lines possible instead of just looping them together, but im not sure which line goes back to the tank. Is my diagram correct?

Also when i remove my fuel cap it makes a 'whooshing' sound (Air entering/escaping) would this mean that their is already a problem with it venting?

post-90047-0-52240200-1353999781_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414541-removing-charcoal-canister/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Hi guys just wondering if i could get some info on the carbon canister for an r34 gtt.

Mine is partially disconnected and gives a terrible fuel smell when starting the car.

It has 2 metal lines running to the back of the car, then there is a vent with a one way valve on the bottom of the can  letting air in and a vacuum line running up to the manifold through a solenoid.

Am i able to remove this solenoid and connect the vac line to the air filter pipe?

A few things are changing on the car at the moment so would be easier to do this now rather than later.

  • 7 years later...
19 hours ago, silviaz said:

Why do people remove these canisters on rb's?

People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.

Edited by joshuaho96
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.

That makes sense. Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...