Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Success!

Sits the front very high as you can possibly tell but that's perfect seeing everything I'm doing is at the front so will make painting underneath a lot easier. 

It rolls around insanely easily too.

Hopefully get home from motorbike riding tomorrow so I can give it a bath. 

20220827_183620.thumb.jpg.b0a637bc907d861c108fd1ee1eba5754.jpg

20220827_183640.thumb.jpg.768f14ef8113b1f6bf5392c6a732934f.jpg

20220827_192856.thumb.jpg.fcaa5e33887e21708d90c39fe6eb00aa.jpg

20220827_192902.thumb.jpg.7235f4e1c31921439dea7763e9d047d4.jpg

 

  • Like 2

Nice work on the cart.
Definitely needs a clean. I've use degreaser, scotch brite, stainless wool and pressure cleaner generally gets all the grime.

Going to be worth the effort and be tidy when all done.

I've used a dolly like that before (well, not as sturdy), but keep in mind the car will be way less stable on it due to the small wheels and narrow wheelbase. Rolling it on anything but a totally flat floor will be puckering

On 27/8/2022 at 8:45 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Nice work on the cart.
Definitely needs a clean. I've use degreaser, scotch brite, stainless wool and pressure cleaner generally gets all the grime.

Going to be worth the effort and be tidy when all done.

Cheers mate.  Yeah probably needs another few scrubs and blasts before it’s ready for paint prep.

On 28/8/2022 at 8:15 AM, Duncan said:

I've used a dolly like that before (well, not as sturdy), but keep in mind the car will be way less stable on it due to the small wheels and narrow wheelbase. Rolling it on anything but a totally flat floor will be puckering

It actually surprised me how stable it is and how easily it rolls around.  I had to roll it over a 75mm gap I have in the concrete between inside and outside and it was fine over that. No signs of being unsteady at all.

I ended up washing it at 9:30pm last night.  I couldn’t wait til today.  Was absolutely gross before the scrub but nice to see it clean again afterwards.  The paint on the body of the car is amazingly good.  It’s just the bumpers that let it down.  If I achieve a good enough job on the engine bay and I’m confident enough in my painting ability then I’ll be painting those too.

  • Like 1

Yep, she was certainly due for that bath...

301008950_485319416316265_9046162419174179513_n.thumb.jpg.c8aa941394d3321114580bd43d85bd42.jpg

301382161_1331864793884157_5597529623717288520_n.thumb.jpg.8a6e6f79641938252882c18161861503.jpg

 

Probably should have chammied it but at 9:30PM the inclination was low.  My fingers were frozen by that point.

She certainly looks a lot better now.  

300977210_1973830726159825_8396815183389596026_n.thumb.jpg.e8e05ef127972f28bafe2e09e1f38ca0.jpg

301520756_775487550166372_3807814287046796448_n.thumb.jpg.a244e257b3d0987c94285d4992e432be.jpg

 

  • Like 2

Started removing Nissan's horrid efforts at seam sealing in the engine bay.  I'm sure a blind dude has been given that job back in the factory. It's terrible how little effort they put into it!  🤣

20220901_212227.thumb.jpg.a51b597cdbd4cca5f5283693b94ff13d.jpg

20220901_221013.thumb.jpg.f282b98398216709ec4fc12266abdb8f.jpg

Some of the carnage left over (most of it is still sitting on the frame rails)

20220901_221135.thumb.jpg.7ec6f18ef555722681db3a6cdc76a8b7.jpg

Started (attempting) to strip off the undercover sealer from the wheel wells. Damn is that a thankless job....  Used a heat gun and scraper to get the bulk of it off. I'm hoping nasty chemicals finish off the rest of it as that cooked me!

20220901_221207.thumb.jpg.93e960c228a1effdf1dd97d664d9e7bb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 4

Got the right wheel arch pretty much ready to go. Just needs a bit more seam sealer removed and then give the whole thing a scuff up with sandpaper.  Ended up giving the wire wheel on the drill a go for cleaning up the residual body deadener. Worked quite well but not good enough to remove the deadened at full thickness so persisted stripping the bulk of it off with the heat gun and scraper on the left side as well. As you can see it took it back to bare metal in some spots but shouldn't cause any dramas. I may have to etch primer the bare sections prior to high fill primer over everything but I’ll talk to the paint shop to get their opinion first.  Picking up the paint/primer/clear this week so I'll ask then.

Right (post wire wheeling)-

20220904_155354.thumb.jpg.6ee3fa7dcab91bdc455a3547159ebbe9.jpg

Left (pre wire wheeling)-

20220904_182543.thumb.jpg.ddd27f26dc56fa6a3873962c571649b5.jpg

Hoping to have all the stripping and then seam sealing done by the end of this week and then start painting the week after that. 

 

  • Like 4

#escalation

20220910_160051.thumb.jpg.dac1ff179ca8dba733d575dcd5c25a34.jpg

20220910_160100.thumb.jpg.da923dc1e5192a9b9450f61cab6935f7.jpg

 

20220910_173326.thumb.jpg.f1a4f6f2e08d8a3e5b6033e69500e1cd.jpg

 

If I'm as bad at spray painting as I expect I'll be, I've really got myself in a world of hurt...

I've decided that it would be stupid NOT to paint under the car until at least passed the end of the gearbox. That way when I decide to finish full resto on the back half at least I don't have to take the engine and gearbox out again. All I'd need to take off would be the tailshaft and everything behind that. 

I'll tidy up the sill sections as best as possible (they're not great but far from the worst I've ever seen) and seam seal and paint them at the same time. 

The floor and myself are currently covered in a shit tonne of shredded tar...

20220910_170246.thumb.jpg.ef624de458646809c8649f227691f0f6.jpg

Wish me luck digging myself out of THIS hole....

  • Like 3
On 10/9/2022 at 7:25 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

you've come this far....... may as well do the rear now too as be heaps easier doing it in one hit.
Cars on the hoist so subframe is easy to remove.
 

Hey, don’t you hit me with sensible comments! 😂 

Where do you stop though? I was first going to NOT paint then engine bay, then I was going to paint the bay but just to the floor, then I was going to halfway along the car, then I thought “stuff it, I’ll go to just before the fuel tank!  You are right but there really isn’t much in the way of visible body beyond that point so if I don’t do it now I’m not fussed.  I’ll get everything that I’ve committed to fully prepped and ready to go and if I’ve got the inclination to do the whole thing I’ll decide then.  I do have to pull the subframe out at some point as I’ve non V-Spec diff to put in so if that’s done in this round of mods then I will paint above it at the same time.

Should get all of the body deadener stripped by tomorrow so ready to start seam sealing and slapping a bit of bog around by next week.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Yeah its making it a bigger job and more time off the road. Your right most of its hidden so won't see it just a good clean will be fine there.

Its a slippery slope with tidying up/restoring a car thats why I haven't fixed my wifes HQ. Need to pull half of it apart to fix a few little things but it would be mostly stripped at that point and I hate half doing things.

  • Like 1
On 10/09/2022 at 8:11 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Yeah its making it a bigger job and more time off the road. Your right most of its hidden so won't see it just a good clean will be fine there.

Its a slippery slope with tidying up/restoring a car thats why I haven't fixed my wifes HQ. Need to pull half of it apart to fix a few little things but it would be mostly stripped at that point and I hate half doing things.

Yes, they're a very slippery slope. Every. Single. Time..... 🙂

On 10/9/2022 at 9:30 PM, r32-25t said:

Hahaha I’m glad I made the call early on where the start and finish was going to be for the paint and stuck to it 

I have made many, many plans and stuck to about none of them! 😂

Wow......  There's two days of my life I'll never get back....  That is a very dirty, fiddly and physically demanding job!  I can see why most people would do underbody on a rotisserie. Very hard on the arms, shoulders and back. Not gunna lie, pretty happy the vast majority of the stripping down part of it is done.  Theres not one spec of body deadener left under the car (up to the fuel tank).  Hopefully get some Epoxy Primer during the week and get a couple of coats over everything before I get any flash rust seeing it's pretty wet at the moment. Seam sealer and body filler will go very the top of the primer then base, then clear.

Probably going to Raptor liner the wheel arches and under the car.  Having a full 3 layer paint finish and then Raptor should seal everything up for the next 25+ plus years. 

20220911_170706.thumb.jpg.f63ba4771ed080cf39aabd30635eb392.jpg

20220911_171105.thumb.jpg.6e60499c81293895733b68935fec2f30.jpg

20220911_172339.thumb.jpg.91954098d476d03b67e1a784d994ab0a.jpg

 

  • Like 5
On 11/09/2022 at 5:46 PM, admS15 said:

That's some mega dedication right there👍

 

On 12/09/2022 at 6:12 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Big time!

Amazing effort

Thanks guys, much appreciated!  It was a slog I can tell you!

Especially in all the ribs along the underside.  They could have made it dead flat to make my life easier!!

image.thumb.png.089300b1e789938662fd2b75c9841b85.png

 

Having a play around with the sills at the moment trying to straighten them up a bit.  Mainly just each end is where the damage is.  I want to get them a bit better but not waste days on them!  I had a bit of a crack with locking pliers and a slide hammer which was mildly successful in pulling them back into place a little but they need more work before I'm happy.  I've got another puller concept in mind utilising 3 locking pliers and an engine support bar pulling up against the underside of the hoist arms that allows me to pull down on the 3 locking pliers with nuts that are on a threaded rod that is screwed into the bottom of the locking pliers where the adjuster bolt normally goes.  Very hard to explain without photos!  If I go with it I'll post up some photos so my rambling actually makes some sort of sense!!

I got a heap of tarps from Bunnings yesterday to make up my makeshift "spray booth".  I'm more doing it to stop getting overspray on everything other than the car rather than the goal of a perfect paint job!  I'm pretty much going to make the shed a 'wind tunnel' so lining the walls of half of the shed so air comes in one roller door and then flows out the other roller door at the other end of the shed.  It won't be perfect and will probably still mean I get a bit of shit in the paint but meh, can't get it all your own way!!

  • Like 2

Get some pics up of the tools your making/using be handy for others.

This is going to worth all the effort.

Good idea with the booth/tarps. I've used a 6x3 gazebo & industrial wrap on the sides with good success.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...