Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The last of my adjustable arms showed up today,I went for the just jap front upper control arms.

frontcamberarms_zps5771e9a0.jpg

I will get an alignment once i fit them all i'm thinking of going neg 1.5 degrees front camber and positive 7 degrees castor and rear neg 1 degree camber

I think that will be good enough to run on track and not increase Tyre wear too much on the street.

  • 1 month later...

My 356mm 8pot d2 brake kit from the group buy got delivered this week, for a big brake kit they are surprisingly light and are very well made.

brakes1_zpsf6a8a830.jpg

and for the rear i went for dba 4000 series rotors with the QFM A1rm pads and gktech braided lines.

brakes5_zps81b07e04.jpg

I finally had a bit of time on friday arvo and got to fitting it all.

brakes2_zps10cbfe17.jpg

brakes3_zps3846a0ec.jpg

brakes4_zpse39c7846.jpg

A few other things were delivered aswell this week. it felt like Christmas with all the boxes of parts building up.

i got a kaaz 1.5way diff which will be a lot better then my standard diff which has opened up. I just need to find somewhere that can install in any housing for me. if anyone knows someone around the newcastle, maitland area who the would recommend let me know.

diff1_zps7d886645.jpg

Gktech adjustable rear traction arms which i will helpfully put in soon with the rest of my adjustable arms when i get some time away from work and tafe again.

gktecharms2_zps4b64bf62.jpg

yeah it should turn out pretty fun, hopefully it will anyway

just a small update i purchased a hi octane racing pod filter enclosure hopefully this will keep some of the heat out of the intake.

airbox_zps81167220.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

i booked in for a track day at wakefield this thursday so i got stuck into fitting the rest of my parts and changed all the fluids.

i put in all my adjustable suspension arms

castorarminstall_zpsa6a6727d.jpg

uppercontrolarminstall_zps4d446eb1.jpg

reararmsinstall_zpse2108ac1.jpg

and the brake master cylinder stopper

brakestopper_zpsd10a4e98.jpg

Didn't come say hi but you were out with my other half at the track

Was weird two skylines that were similar didn't know which to watch as they sort of look the same from a distance

yeah my mates who were in the other sessions took photos of her going around thinking it was me. she was so much faster then me

I was the one who spent most of my time off the track though. i found out i have more balls then skill haha

yeah its had pretty well all the basics done and its where i want it for now just need new tires as they were letting me down and i found out after the track day they were made 10 05 so well past there use by date.

So its time for some nitto nt05's before i head to the track next.

Nice build thread :)

Any plan to put bigger calipers on the rear?

Any other suspension work that you're going to do?

No plan to go any bigger as of yet. i will have to really put the to the test next time i hit the track with better tires but i did find the fronts wanted to lock up more so then the rear.

i had to keep swapping wheels from front to back so i could wear the flat spots out.

Not anything else i have planned really for it suspension wise. Unless you or anyone else has some suggestions i could look into

I like what you've done with your build. It's similar to the path I'm following, getting the car as reliable as possible, will then look at handling and then power last!

Yeah i reckon its the best way to go the more reliable it is the more chance you get to enjoy it

Hey mate, nice build up. No expense spared on your parts hey haha, looks the goods on the 34 wheels! Im also from maitland, cant say ive ever seen your car getting about tho.

Thanks mate i really like the look of them aswell. I don't drive it around that much im trying to get it out more often though

  • 6 months later...

So not much has been happening with the car lately with trying to save to get to Europe at the end of the year.

but i managed to get enough money together to get some new tyres.

i wanted something that didnt wear to fast on the street and still go sorta alright on the track so

i got the nitto nt05 in a 245/40

20131105_154954_zps37159665.jpg

Awesome man :) Apparently Pete isn't working up at Bridgestone at Greenhills anymore, so no more awesome wheel alignments from him. :(

Really fark I was gunna ring up tommorrow and book in.

Where has he gone too?

I have those tie rods that have being sitting in my shed for ages im gunna put in this weekend

If you wanna come round this friday arvo or saturday.

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...