Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Suspension

Chris at Inline qbn, who is the local guru, had a heart attack just before doing an extensive job on the 32.

He is still working, however he cant take on the same workload as before, even though he has some helpers now.

So if you want the best be prepared to wait.

Second best is probably capital steering and suspension fyshwick.

I havent had work done by them, but they supplied my parts quickly, and others give them a good rap(earlier in this thread).

They have a large workshop and lots of workers, so im sure they would be quick on the job too.

But if your getting all adjustable arms and stuff, you want them adjusted right, so Inline is the way to go.

Ps.. my car was the s-box there, Porches, Ferrari, BMW, Merc, and some beautiful oldies like a Corvette and Mustang.

This guy really knows what he's doing. Nice bloke too.

A couple of weeks ago, probably from working too much.

Just before starting on the 32, but the last thing he needs is to stress about work. So i waited awhile before calling back.

Hes had many many well wishers and says hes a bit over it. I think heaps of people know him in the industry and motorsport.

Obviously has a lot of freinds, like i said, a nice bloke.

Maybe we could send him a get well soon card from SAU ACT, it would be nice, and unobtrusive.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

B N P is no more.

The guy that owned it bought Japspec Garage in mitchell.

That reminds me i gotta look and see if hes got something i want (2 rooms of bits apparently)

More than just two rooms mate. Pm with a list as there is a sale going on.

Bit of a story about my experience with ACT Brakes.

Today I had the hardline fittings flared for my hydraulic handbrake at ACT Brakes. They are terrible, I wouldn't recommend them at all.

First of all, they are very over priced. ABS in Fyshwick will flare the ends of hard brake line for $5.50 per flare, I like this shop and they do a good job, but their portable flaring tool was broken, so they could only flare hardline out of the car, not under the car like I needed.

ACT Brakes quoted $31.25 per flare! There were no other shops nearby to do the work, so I paid $125 to have the 4 flares done. Way way overpriced.

Secondly, when I arrived to pick my car up it was sitting outside in pouring rain with the two front windows down - both seats drenched and pools of water in the footwells (no carpet in my car)

Next, they said if I wanted the brakes bled it would cost a further $75, I said no and I will bleed them at home. When I picked the car up they said they bled them anyway, but the pedal goes flat to the floor, it was a very difficult drive home. Pretty poor that they couldn't even quickly bleed the brakes to a reasonable pedal feel, hydraulic handbrake or not they are supposed to be a brake shop.

Lastly, before I took the car in I drilled a hole in my transmission tunnel for the hardline to run through, I drilled a 13.5mm hole and put a rubber grommet in it - more than big enough for two pieces of hardline to run through. When I picked the car up, they had run 1 line through the hole with a grommet that I drilled, then they had drilled another hole next to it and didn't put a grommet, I left more grommets in the glovebox but I didn't know they were drilling a new hole and I forgot to tell them about the extra grommets. Either way, you would think a 'professional' brake shop would not leave a brake line running through a bare metal hole.

That's my rant. Overall, terrible experienced, shoddy work and very overpriced, I would not recommend these guys to anyone.

The ACT Brakes in Mitchell is well known for screwing people as they do a lot of rego inspections.

Pedders Belco is another bad one, most of the transmission shops in canberra etc etc.

Half the auto shops in Canberra are dodgy as.

Check out who has a good reputation and avoid all others.

Ps: Did you check out how much a flaring tool is? Or if one of us has one? I have pipe benders for that stuff. You got a drill and grommets....

Yep just as above ^ I had one lined up but that fell through at the last minute, needed to have it done in time for Wakefield this weekend.

I didn't post on any forums, I found out yesterday I couldn't use the tool I had arranged to so I started calling shops.

Flaring tools aren't that expensive but I needed a weird double flare, that is what makes the tools quite expensive (from what I found)

Pretty disappointing; I wonder how so many of these workshops stay in business.. perhaps all of their trade accounts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...