Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick update.

Received this today

IMG_1288_zpse48a66a0.jpg

IMG_1293_zps2873a717.jpg

Mines Triple Flow Cam Cover Baffle Plates

IMG_1294_zpscc092aa8.jpg

Comes with sponges (to clean my dirty windows lol :P )

IMG_1290_zpsd0208d50.jpg

IMG_1291_zps5accae91.jpg

and the necessary instructions all in Japanese not that it takes a rocket scientist to work out how to install them.

Great work.

I run the Nismo dump pipes (as seen above) and the 90mm Midori Ti front pipes and love the set up.

The combo you have gone for with the Mines dumps and 80mm Midori Ti front pipes will be really nice.

Thanks guys.

Those nismo r-tune coil-overs look sweet and are listed cheaply. But then again its is an auction and I'm not sure if they are totally new???

I'm actually looking at getting these for the car, but not certain if they are going to be too harsh :blink:

image_zpsbf3b85ef.jpg

Would be interesting to know the spec on the BC's? Spring rates etc?

I am running Tein Monoflex and they are definitely to stiff for street / hard street (i.e. hill runs).

When coming in hot to sharp bends it is challenging unless the surface is smooth as the car bounces around too much, causing ABS to come on and understeer to occur.

R-tunes are basically ohlins flag-r's. So after market springs etc are cheap from 'Swift springs' if need be.

Brand new retail is close to 6k a set delivered.

If need be I can arrange bidding, shipping and new springs.

Thanks guys.

Those nismo r-tune coil-overs look sweet and are listed cheaply. But then again its is an auction and I'm not sure if they are totally new???

I'm actually looking at getting these for the car, but not certain if they are going to be too harsh :blink:

image_zpsbf3b85ef.jpg

Front Spring rates are rated at 10kg

Rears rated at 8kg

R-tunes are basically ohlins flag-r's. So after market springs etc are cheap from 'Swift springs' if need be.

Brand new retail is close to 6k a set delivered.

If need be I can arrange bidding, shipping and new springs.

Thanks mate, I am keeping all options available FTM, so will let you know in case I go down that path.

Front Spring rates are rated at 10kg

Rears rated at 8kg

Forgot to mention this

C ER Series Coilover Standard Features:

- Front External Reservoir

- Front Pillowball Top Mount

- Rear External Reservoir

- Rear Pillowball Top Mount

- Twin Piston Design

- Separate Compression & Rebound Adjustment

- 30 Level Damping Force Adjustment

- Full-Length Height Adjustment

- Anodized Alloy Casing

- CNC Machined

- T6061 Alloy Locking Ring

- Monotube Design For Maximum Performance

- Fully Rebuildable

- 12 Month Warranty

Ants, have you considered the German KW Suspension?

http://www.kw-suspensions.eu/int/kw_variant_3.php

Not sure on pricing, but plenty of top level motorsports teams use them, and have seen plenty used on the Hillclimb stuff too. Something that I'll be looking at when my current RG coilovers fail (which they're beginning to do) in my Silvia.

So lately I have been focusing on the cosmetics of the car which I must admit is pretty shifty :unsure: as I actually put the bodykit myslef many years ago whithout really knowing how :whistling:

So firstly the LHS sideskirt needed to be put back on which looked like this

IMG_1241_zpsbe650ca4.jpg

Its a one peice fibre glass copy of the N1 sideskirts which are actually pretty nice (if fitted correctly)

IMG_1240_zps01adca35.jpg

I off course I gave them a good clean first, then trial fitted them to ensure that I did not have to mak any adjustments to the sideskirt which is a critical step to undertake if you want the bodykit to fit perfectly

Now the fun bit :yes:

IMG_1321_zps1a607a42.jpg

I applied some Sikaflex 227 adhesive on the side skirt using this. It is important to have a good gun and this actually was quiet exy but worth while (notice to nozel saver, is good to have if you don't want the adhesive to dry out on you)

Then the not so fun bit....

IMG_1242_zps81ccb97c.jpg

To ensure that sideskirt sits absolutely flush I had to secure with clamps but trying to find a spot to clamp where the rear seats and the N1 skirt lies was really hard but I managed.

IMG_1243_zpse93bd065.jpg

Here you can see that there are no gaps between the sideskirt and the main body of the car

IMG_1255_zpsf2caee6c.jpg

After a couple of hours once the adhesive has hardened I took clamps off and here we go.

IMG_1256_zpsb83381a9.jpg

here you can see how well the side skirt fits and sits perfectly

I will need to do the right hand side but will most likely to do after the car has been tuned

Now I also wanted to fix up the rear pods and I started with rear RHS pod which used to look like this

IMG_1296_zpsa8a1568e.jpg

you can see that it does not sit flush against the body of the car so I am going to correct it (something that has been bugging me for a loooooooooooong time)

IMG_1298_zps0f9951c8.jpg

so I started to remove it, there are two bolts in front of the rear spatters and one underneath (which I did not have)

IMG_1299_zps047d71bf.jpg

here you can see the excessive adhesive and crap that has been applied causing the pod to stand out

IMG_1301_zps0b64bd11.jpg

Then get a scraper (preferably a plastic one) and remove the old adhesive material

IMG_1302_zps9a1b41e5.jpg

picture after removing adhesive bits and after a little clean. There is still some glue (supa glue believe it or not which is impossible to take off without chipping some paint :verymad: )

IMG_1305_zpsb32be802.jpg

so the next step was to sand it with some 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper to get like this

IMG_1308_zps75efd231.jpg

Then prep time! to make sure that no paint gets spattered where it is not suppose to

IMG_1309_zps97652d84.jpg

I used this instead of the usual White Knight primer I have been using, which has a superior rust protection rating

IMG_1311_zps651733d5.jpg

Photo after first coat applied...some of the paint was sagging so I waited for it to dry and sanded it with 1200 grit wet and dry sand paper

IMG_1316_zpsfe564c8f.jpg

Finally, resprayed it with some holts auto spray (DSSB01) to get like this.

Not quiet finished with it and will re-sand it (very lightly) and then apply a coat of Motospray Topcoat clear to make it nice and glossy (not that any is really going to see as I will be putting on the pod after I restore it :rolleyes: )

Now for the pod

IMG_1300_zps148e8743.jpg

was full of crap inside it

IMG_1322_zpsa8d7bd97.jpg

gave it a good clean and removed the adhesive that was on there (prep wash gets rid of the adhesive very quickly)

IMG_1312_zps1fd8cf8e.jpg

Here you can see how the pod has been battered by gravel, sand etc.. from the rear wheel

IMG_1317_zps9df97834.jpg

Photo after been sanded

IMG_1318_zpsa0de75e4.jpg

used some p80 grit and then p1200 (fine) grit

Next time I will get them resprayed and refit them but that is all for now :action-smiley-069:

Edited by Ants

Hey ants great build so far, love reading it. Just thought ill mention that I bought the bc er coilovers your thinking of getting for my gtt a couple years ago and i found them to be too stiff on the street but very good on the track. I didnt notice any difference when i adjusted the settings either.

Ok I know that its late and passed my bedtime (for old me ;) ) but I thought I would share this with you all:

This arrived today :banana:

IMG_1332_zpsdd181359.jpg

It is the missing puzzle to the exhaust system

IMG_1333_zps9db87e9a.jpg

Tomei expreme Ti 3.5inch cat back exhaust

IMG_1334_zpsd38722b8.jpg

always nicely packaged

IMG_1336_zps1f719ebe.jpg

IMG_1337_zps31bd94ec.jpg

almost speechless at the beauty of this muffler

IMG_1338_zpse45741d3.jpg

Gonna be LOUD!

IMG_1339_zpsd47974cd.jpg

There is just something sexy about titanium :teehee:

IMG_1342_zpsc4df1466.jpg

comes with the necessary bits of gear to piece it all together

IMG_1340_zps665b27bd.jpg

I actually like this....a nice cool Tomei badge I can put on the car (most likely beneath the rear RHS twin round taillights)

last but not least.....

IMG_1335_zps29046619.jpg

Nismo titanium GT shift knob (I already have the normal polyurethane nismo GT shift knob but thought what the hell)

have good night

Edited by Ants

Hey ants great build so far, love reading it. Just thought ill mention that I bought the bc er coilovers your thinking of getting for my gtt a couple years ago and i found them to be too stiff on the street but very good on the track. I didnt notice any difference when i adjusted the settings either.

Thanks for the feedback mate.

I have still have not decided what coilovers I want, but I have an idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...