Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As of last weekend, this is my new 'daily'. I previously owned a ~620rwhp R33 GT-R with a T04Z, built motor etc etc. That was a great car, but by the time I worked out how much I had spent on it, and what I still wanted to do with it, it was actually cheaper to just bite the bullet and by the R35.

Specs are:

2009 Nissan R35 GT-R

Dark Metal Grey

32,000kms

There are quite a few mods in the pipeline, and I have already fitted a full exhaust system (Midpipe and Catback) and 15mm spacers on the front, with 20mm spacers on the rear.

I have a few goals for the car:

Goals: (will tick them off as they get completed)

- 10.5* or less 1/4 mile pass

- 54.* or less Wanneroo Short-track time

- 550hp at the wheels

The idea behind this car is to be able to achieve my goals for under $10,000. As such, the planned upgrades are as follows:

Empire Performance Midpipe ( http://myworld.ebay....ire_performance )

Empire Performance Catback ( http://myworld.ebay....ire_performance )

COBB Accessport NIS-006 with TCM control ( http://justjap.com/s...ufacturerid=101 )

Empire Performance Intake + Intercooler kit

Bosch EV14 1100cc injectors (http://www.gtrlife.c...-in-fuel-pumps/)

SiR in-tank fuel pumps (http://www.gtrlife.c...-in-fuel-pumps/)

SiR Stage 1 turbo upgrade (http://www.gtrlife.c...rbos-2500-core/)

I'm hoping with these mods it'll do about 550rwhp on 16-18psi (may not actually need the turbos to do this, but we'll play it by ear).

Some pics :)

8309029121_f98567a1c8_b.jpg

8280972928_3b1f7ca51d_b.jpg

8279916955_eeed4f5e61_b.jpg

8280979768_515886b072_b.jpg

I've owned the car for almost 2 weeks now, so it's definitely time for mods. Here's the latest:

Dyno'd it completely 100% stock to get a good baseline figure. It made 415awhp at only 11psi.... not a bad base to work with!!

R35-GTR-StockDyno1600x1200_zpsce16e9e0.jpeg

Right after that, we fit the new Empire Performance exhaust and mid-pipe. The weight saving in this is HUGE. I'm guessing the new midpipe is about 15kg's lighter, but I'll weigh the old one shortly.

Old Midpipe:

photo5-2_zpsd81cbdc3.jpg

Old vs New:

photo4-1_zps6636b9ef.jpg

New midpipe and catback:

photo1-1_zpsc2f51bb2.jpg

photo_zps8cc01c05.jpg

photo3-3_zps51348489.jpg

Now it sounds like this:

:)

welcome, mod list looks great

you won't need aftermarket turbos to crack 550awhp, you can achieve that quite easily on stock turbos with e85

but you would need them to comfortably crack a mid 10 1/4 on r compound/stock tyres

id be very cautious about buying american mod'd stock frame turbos, despite the allure of great pricing. willall racing in SA offer a similar high flow oem turbo with added benefit of local support and proven reliability

I'll look into the turbo's in a lot more detail as the time comes. I won't be going to that stage for probably a year or so anyway, so it gives me plenty of time to research.

I forgot to add, I'll need dump-pipes as well, which are already bought.

Not sure why the videos didn't work! Can't seem to ember HTML code here...

Free-rev:

Fly-bye / downshift:

Edited by Brockas

Not sure why the videos didn't work! Can't seem to ember HTML code here...

No need to use the embed, just paste the direct link, works fine - we've setup to recognise straight links (saves time) :)

Looks very nice,that colour was my first choice but ended up with black,i bought mine 9 months ago with 8000ks,it was in good cond so i did not wait for a grey one.

I got a midpipe a few months ago which is great,and just instaled a cobb 006,you will like this for power but most of all the tcm transforms the 09 tranny!

Anyway enjoy your car,its nice to see another perth boy with a r35.

How much did you pay for the car?

Beautiful car, impressive stock power too!

And yes please tell us how much you paid!

$105k + on roads.

I got a midpipe a few months ago which is great,and just instaled a cobb 006,you will like this for power but most of all the tcm transforms the 09 tranny!

Anyway enjoy your car,its nice to see another perth boy with a r35.

Yup, am looking forward to the COBB installation. The transmission had it's software 'updated' by Magic Nissan here in Perth, and they apparently put all the 2012 settings into it (without LC5).

I still think there are improvements to be had though.

Cheers :)

Yup, am looking forward to the COBB installation. The transmission had it's software 'updated' by Magic Nissan here in Perth, and they apparently put all the 2012 settings into it (without LC5).

Interesting, I was under the impression this cannot be done without a Cobb???? They probably just updated the touch points and done :P

Edited by Wardski

Something i have noticed with the TCM which i have not seen mentioned anywhere as far as i know is that on the standard software,if you have it in R for gearshifts,when you go from auto to manual and vice versa you have to put it back to R each time.

With the cobb software it stays in R when you switch from auto to manual and back again,nifty feature as this would always annoy me.

Interesting, I was under the impression this cannot be done without a Cobb???? They probably just updated the touch points and done :P

They took about 4 hours to do it (and didn't charge me) so I'm not entirely sure what they did. All I know is it made a very noticeable difference to the way the car drives. It's substantially better now.

Something i have noticed with the TCM which i have not seen mentioned anywhere as far as i know is that on the standard software,if you have it in R for gearshifts,when you go from auto to manual and vice versa you have to put it back to R each time.

With the cobb software it stays in R when you switch from auto to manual and back again,nifty feature as this would always annoy me.

That is a handy feature. I have no idea why they set it to kick out of R mode from the factory, very annoying!

  • 3 weeks later...

Something i have noticed with the TCM which i have not seen mentioned anywhere as far as i know is that on the standard software,if you have it in R for gearshifts,when you go from auto to manual and vice versa you have to put it back to R each time.

With the cobb software it stays in R when you switch from auto to manual and back again,nifty feature as this would always annoy me.

Only with the NIS-006

Congrats on your purchase.

The older model does run relatively low boost compared to more recent models.

My MY11 runs between 13.5 & 14psi between 3200 & 6600 rpm, peaking at 4500 rpm, so there’s some very easy power to be had with an increase in boost.

Fyi, get your tuner to display DIN rather than the old USA standard SAE J1349, so use KW & NM with DIN.

That dynapack torque graph is accurate, because it shows the twin torque peaks that occur at around 4000 & 5000rpm in the R35.

If you can, do a dyno run straight after the exhaust, to measure the difference, then again after the tune (which is what I did).

Good luck.

Brian

  • 3 weeks later...

Yup, I'll endeavour to get that done. Did you notice any HP increase from just the exhaust?

I just picked up the following:

COBB Accessport NIS-006

SiR 1150cc injectors

SiR 290lph fuel pumps

SPD 65mm turbo inlets

Empire 76mm Intake kit

Empire FMIC hard pipe kit

Empire Downpipes

Looking forward to seeing what it makes with these mods on 15-18psi :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...