Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:

you don't get any attessa issues running the wheel and tyre combo you do?!

 

Nope. I run the same size all round.

I have 2 sets of wheels

1st set   : Volk TE37 17x9” +0 Gloss Black – Falken RT615 : 255/40/17 (these wheels came with the car)

2nd set :  Volk TE37 18x9.5 +12 Satin Black – Yokohama AD08R 265/35/18

Was starting to get worried as everything was running so well.

Drove the car to work and back during a couple of high 30 degree days and on the way back on the second day, noticed a foul smell from the engine bay, in stop/start traffic.
Got home and couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Thought great, somethings curled up and died in there.

Noticed some strange corrosive spray marks around the battery and I found this - sealed battery is not so sealed anymore.
IMG_2572_zpsn5o1wn5p.jpg
Managed to spill acid everywhere while I was trying to take it out.

Acid has eaten away at the paint underneath and new black silicone hoses and marked the hard pipes. Great.
IMG_2573_zpstnyhnfra.jpg

 

Quite possibly overcharging due to regulator issue but PFC said 14.1V 
Could also possibly have been the battery

 

 

Cleaned up as much as possible with water. Will need to sand back the exposed metal and re-paint.
IMG_2576_zpslkilebp7.jpg

 

What sort of battery to get next? No use keeping the battery here, in the engine bay.
Looks like there's a new project coming....

That battery wasn't sealed to begin with, i would recommend a Optima Yellow or Red Top battery, they are fantastic, better power per size then most batteries on the market, and completely sealed, you could install it upside down if you really wanted to.

  • Like 2
13 minutes ago, Coullsy said:

That battery wasn't sealed to begin with, i would recommend a Optima Yellow or Red Top battery, they are fantastic, better power per size then most batteries on the market, and completely sealed, you could install it upside down if you really wanted to.

Ah ok.
I've tilted the battery before and it hasn't spilled, previously. Accord to Century they are sealed? http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/sealed-maintenance-free

Cool, thanks I'll take a look at those. Was also looking at Odyssey AGM's.
Will need to sort out details on the battery relocation.

Just get a full river sealed battery, have had much better run with them than oddesy or optima junk.

Find out what model Chris fits to them, not expensive either.

http://www.rjbatt.com.au/fullriver-hc-battery-range/

  • Like 1
21 minutes ago, RBN1 said:

Ah ok.
I've tilted the battery before and it hasn't spilled, previously. Accord to Century they are sealed? http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/sealed-maintenance-free

Cool, thanks I'll take a look at those. Was also looking at Odyssey AGM's.
Will need to sort out details on the battery relocation.

The plastic underneath the long sticker is a lid, on the back up the top you will find 2 x screwdriver slots to pop it up and the caps are under there. The new range of Century's batteries have gone maint. free

Odyssey are great batteries also, all comes down to your budget.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • Yuh, but that one is NLA. There might be an equivalent, but I haven't looked.
    • If you hadn't bought a stand alone one already, nismo make a bolt on adjustable FPR https://www.efisolutions.com.au/nismo-fuel-pressure-regulator-sr-rb-s13-180sx-r32
    • I know and understand they are principally the same. They both cause lock under decel, but the 1.5 nomenclature implies "half" or less locking force, or it allows for more slip or a speed differential between both wheels. Right now the driving manners with the 2 way is pretty rough on transient to full off throttle in the backroads. In other words letting off the throttle too rough is not forgiving, great for drifting, tougher for controlled grip driving.      Yeah, I have watched that video a couple times, I am more so just looking for the confirmation that both part numbers offer the same ramp architecture and are just different settings from the factory.     38420-RSS15-B5  38420-RSS20-B5
×
×
  • Create New...