Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I bought a 1.5way ATS metal rear diff. Now, I'm thinking should I buy a front diff lsd as well ? Car is mostly street-driven but expect to make about 30-50 launch a year and maybe 5 track event ( never went lapping yet, so I'm a newb)

I searched and couldn't find much information really. Not enought to make a concensus, at least. What I found from GTR.UK is the front lsd is somewhat a bad idea and difference should be very marginal and very bad if used on the street. ( but this is mostly regarding 1.5way).

Here, only few peoples have spoken and most said, they were good when matched with other drivetrains mods. other only said quaife was better but not why or anything else..

So please tell me, what if I buy a cusco LSD and set it to 1way instead of 1.5way. would I see a gain or really 90%of the difference is located at the rear wheels ( and it has already been taken care) ? and how would my street driving be affected ?

I live in downtown and can be stuck in traffic from times to times so I always try to make it as street friendly as possible.

Thanks a lot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422006-front-cusco-lsd-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

100% the quaife center.

There is no other choice for a GTR when I'm asked to fit one.

They aren't noisey and bang around

They transition nicely when power is applied

Drive is always consistent to the front axles

They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quaife. Just do it and don't think about it.

You don't know it's there until you want it to be.

100% the quaife center.

There is no other choice for a GTR when I'm asked to fit one.

They aren't noisey and bang around

They transition nicely when power is applied

Drive is always consistent to the front axles

They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

Exactly,

I to have the Quaife front LSD and I forget it's even there, brilliant for daily street driven GTRs that do occasional trackdays or drags

Exactly,

I to have the Quaife front LSD and I forget it's even there, brilliant for daily street driven GTRs that do occasional trackdays or drags

That's one thing I did notice with the few launches I have done with the quiafe in. It launches SO MUCH BETTER! Stupid standard diff crap!!!

Hi Paul - can you PM me as well please ... it's something I have been thinking about for a while

You won't be looking back... I sound like a broken record, but it's one of the best things I've done to the car.

Hey Paul

I am thinking of going this way on my R32GTR build. I recently purchased a quaiffe 6 speed dog box for the car(not fitted yet). I am thinking this Quaiffe front diff might be a nice compliment to the new engine and box I am adding. Do you have any other suggestions for the drive train?

Can you PM me the details of your dif supplier as well? Cheers.

Next time you are down Paul I'll have to take your car for a spin and see the difference between your Quaife and what my Nismo front LSD was like, as my Nismo was exactly the same as this one it settled in (about 500kms)




They aren't noisey and bang around
They transition nicely when power is applied
Drive is always consistent to the front axles
They just work and do everything in a nice way not a harsh slap happy way.

Next time you are down Paul I'll have to take your car for a spin and see the difference between your Quaife and what my Nismo front LSD was like, as my Nismo was exactly the same as this one it settled in (about 500kms)

NP man. I think we are coming down for the next DECA. Hopefully you can make it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...