Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just want to know if anyone has ran a Bosch 040 in tank fuel pump? If so, are they any good? It's gonna go in a Gtr witch will be pushing about 280 - 300 kw, or is there a better pump?

Hope u guys can help.

I know its not the help you were expecting. But it's a start.

:thumbsup:

Hi guys,

Just want to know if anyone has ran a Bosch 040 in tank fuel pump? If so, are they any good? It's gonna go in a Gtr WHICH will be pushing about 280 - 300 kw, or is there a better pump?

Hope u guys can help.

I know its not the help you were expecting. But it's a start.

:thumbsup:

Lol...

040 or 044 are fine in the tank and will work well for that sort of power :)

044 can run in-tank.

Both 040 and 044 will require modification to the bracket to get it to fit, it gets strapped to the bracket with a metal hose clamp.

Other options are Walbro 255L/h and Walbro 400L/h pumps which are smaller and quieter.

Also the Nismo in-tank which is a direct replacement without modification, it's a bit $$$ though compared to the others.

If going for a Walbro, look up the tutorial on here for "Fuel pump Direct Feed Rewire", they are more affected by the voltage drop problems in the OEM wiring than OEM Pumps and Bosch pumps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...