Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm about to buy a car but the seller is having difficulty getting a rwc due to the modifications. He's offering a significant discount if I take it without a rwc.

I don't fully understand the rwc process. One of the main issues on this car is that it has upgraded brakes and no engineers cert for this mod. If I were to get a rwc from a shop, what would they do? Replace the standard brakes, sign a form, then put the upgraded ones back on?

What's to stop them from simply saying the brakes were standard when they signed the form? Is there a way Vicroads can police it or check it out?

Can anyone provide some insight into the process?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422453-getting-a-rwc-on-a-modified-car/
Share on other sites

im not convinced they would check that they have been upgraded and nor would they care

they do a stopping test to ensure the car pulls up correctly at speeds and other than that, i cant see why it would fail the brake test or brakes

its a different story when you goto vicroads with the roadworthy cert for a new rego and they do the inpsection

they might go hey why does this have ap racing 6 pots on the front when it should have 4 or they might not even notice (or care)

The shop we took it to which has a reputation for giving easy RWC knocked it back on the fact it had big front brakes without the engineers cert.

Reckon I fix everything else and take it elsewhere?

The shop we took it to which has a reputation for giving easy RWC knocked it back on the fact it had big front brakes without the engineers cert.

LOL it obviously wasn't that easy!! To get RWCs now (unlike in the good old days) photos of everything must be taken - including the brakes. Aftermarket brakes look quite different to factory brakes so maybe that's what the workshop pulled you up on - they were afraid of getting busted for okaying something obvious like that

  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't realise that photos were needed for everything now. Maybe that's why the price of RWCs have gone up so much since a few years ago.

Best to go through the sheet that tells you what needs to be done, repair/replace/return those parts to stock, get a RWC, then put the go/stop fast bits back on.

As far as getting photos of everything they pass that is incorrect. In fact a dodgy RWC is not much harder to write out now then before. If i were writing out a dodgy rwc (which i don't) i would avoid taking photos of the modifications. Then as before you still have the argument that it was modified after it left the rwc check. RWC testers are only encouraged to take photos of things you believe may be modified after the car leaves.

If in Kierans case i was doing a rwc i would probably put standard wheels on it. Take one photo of the car on the hoist, one photo of the standard wheel (on the rear where he has standard brakes), one of the odometer, one of the vin stamped into the body and one of the rego label. Showing no proof of the Mods. As the car is registered already (i think) you would not have to visit vic roads for an inspection anyway.

The new photo system has got everyone scared but in practice its no worse than before.

In saying that you still need to find someone who is willing to risk their and their business licence.

If in Kierans case i was doing a rwc i would probably put standard wheels on it.

I wish it were that easy. Anyone have rims that are 17" or smaller, will clear the 6 pot front brakes and won't stick out of the guards?

As for the rest of it, I just sourced most of the stock parts I need and we're putting it back to standard. Intercooler and brakes are the biggest issue, but I have all the parts so its just the labour to swap it over then swap it back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...