Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm about to buy a car but the seller is having difficulty getting a rwc due to the modifications. He's offering a significant discount if I take it without a rwc.

I don't fully understand the rwc process. One of the main issues on this car is that it has upgraded brakes and no engineers cert for this mod. If I were to get a rwc from a shop, what would they do? Replace the standard brakes, sign a form, then put the upgraded ones back on?

What's to stop them from simply saying the brakes were standard when they signed the form? Is there a way Vicroads can police it or check it out?

Can anyone provide some insight into the process?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422453-getting-a-rwc-on-a-modified-car/
Share on other sites

im not convinced they would check that they have been upgraded and nor would they care

they do a stopping test to ensure the car pulls up correctly at speeds and other than that, i cant see why it would fail the brake test or brakes

its a different story when you goto vicroads with the roadworthy cert for a new rego and they do the inpsection

they might go hey why does this have ap racing 6 pots on the front when it should have 4 or they might not even notice (or care)

The shop we took it to which has a reputation for giving easy RWC knocked it back on the fact it had big front brakes without the engineers cert.

Reckon I fix everything else and take it elsewhere?

The shop we took it to which has a reputation for giving easy RWC knocked it back on the fact it had big front brakes without the engineers cert.

LOL it obviously wasn't that easy!! To get RWCs now (unlike in the good old days) photos of everything must be taken - including the brakes. Aftermarket brakes look quite different to factory brakes so maybe that's what the workshop pulled you up on - they were afraid of getting busted for okaying something obvious like that

  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't realise that photos were needed for everything now. Maybe that's why the price of RWCs have gone up so much since a few years ago.

Best to go through the sheet that tells you what needs to be done, repair/replace/return those parts to stock, get a RWC, then put the go/stop fast bits back on.

As far as getting photos of everything they pass that is incorrect. In fact a dodgy RWC is not much harder to write out now then before. If i were writing out a dodgy rwc (which i don't) i would avoid taking photos of the modifications. Then as before you still have the argument that it was modified after it left the rwc check. RWC testers are only encouraged to take photos of things you believe may be modified after the car leaves.

If in Kierans case i was doing a rwc i would probably put standard wheels on it. Take one photo of the car on the hoist, one photo of the standard wheel (on the rear where he has standard brakes), one of the odometer, one of the vin stamped into the body and one of the rego label. Showing no proof of the Mods. As the car is registered already (i think) you would not have to visit vic roads for an inspection anyway.

The new photo system has got everyone scared but in practice its no worse than before.

In saying that you still need to find someone who is willing to risk their and their business licence.

If in Kierans case i was doing a rwc i would probably put standard wheels on it.

I wish it were that easy. Anyone have rims that are 17" or smaller, will clear the 6 pot front brakes and won't stick out of the guards?

As for the rest of it, I just sourced most of the stock parts I need and we're putting it back to standard. Intercooler and brakes are the biggest issue, but I have all the parts so its just the labour to swap it over then swap it back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...