Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so this POS now has a oil cooler supplied by old mate mark ( god12a) on here

i also shlaped the quick release steering wheel on it

so now i have a wheel and jenna has a wheel to drive it ( i like a dishy one she likes a flat one)

blead the brakes applied stickers for awesome

jenna washed it and shit as well

post-219-0-45956700-1373518710_thumb.jpeg

I dissapear for a bit and now fatz is f**king moby dick, and talking about making shit reliable.

The times, they are a changing

Least Neil still looks like he should be on the grid of the 1976 James Hardie 1000

well wakefield six hour done

car ran well, usual story of filling the catch can over 6k rpm so that was the rev limit for the day

oil cooler worked a treat with oil temps only getting to 105 degrees

rsr rubber is mega shit

was putting around in the 10.5 range and braking very early, changed the pads and bled the brakes and straight down to 1.09 flat and the was at high 1.08 on sunday

quite happy with that id like a low 1.08 before i put decent rubber on

too 200 litres of e85 down and really probably needed 50 more for the day ( did about 100 laps over the two days)

team fat skylines came third last but we all had a ball

pics time

1_zps9d3779bc.jpg

the whale

2_zpsf2966a02.jpg

piss bins car

3_zps1813c26d.jpg

Goulburn tradition

4_zps408430d3.jpg

what a crack team

5_zps6d1e3e43.jpg

pissed down at the start

6_zps5efc65c2.jpg

7_zps31ca2cf7.jpg

8_zps66654315.jpg

welllllll!

so i did a cold compression test last night

150,150,150,140,128,150

i will do a hot compression test as well over the weekend

looks like i may have found my excessive blow bye issue

turns out that a 16 year old engine doesnt like thrashing over the last 4 track days

so what am i to do? ( epic 4 year build thread like most people here?, normal skyline owners would put it up for sale and not mention it to the poor new owner)

me ill add a extra catch can and some mines baffels and take her back to the track

i must say i was hoping this thread would go for years prior to unwrapping teh backup motor, but it look like that will be happening sooner, mind you ill back the revs off and boost off and it could go for a another year( touch wood)

welllllll!

so i did a cold compression test last night

150,150,150,140,128,150

i will do a hot compression test as well over the weekend

looks like i may have found my excessive blow bye issue

turns out that a 16 year old engine doesnt like thrashing over the last 4 track days

so what am i to do? ( epic 4 year build thread like most people here?, normal skyline owners would put it up for sale and not mention it to the poor new owner)

me ill add a extra catch can and some mines baffels and take her back to the track

i must say i was hoping this thread would go for years prior to unwrapping teh backup motor, but it look like that will be happening sooner, mind you ill back the revs off and boost off and it could go for a another year( touch wood)

Inspired by your research the other day I ended up getting one of these... http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/page1/page1.html

I'll let you know how it goes, going to run it from my catch can around the back of the block and into rear turbo drain. Switch it on about 5000rpm or so. I'll let you know how it goes :)

Wonder why you have fooked the motor? Were you always running E85 or were you using 98RON?

98 for three track day( running average)

E85 for the last one (running very well)

Will be interesting at the next track day to see if the catch can mods work.

I think the only way to keep this pos running well would be to run the oil scavenge as well as the upgraded catch can setup( at its current compression situation)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...