Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

give us the info son!

+1

Custom diffusers and under trays interest me...

Looks good

Custom?? Or off the shelf??

Sitting down ladies you have three options

1: dry carbon front lip and dry carbon undertray $1500

2: dry carbon front lip and Frp under tray $1200

3: Frp lip and under tray $900

Parts coming together for the new engine

Cheers to god12a on fronting up the good( Tarmac solutions)

No I can plan my super mega hyper excellent catch can system

Dash ten on pasengers side

image_zps1ceccf15.jpg

Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up

image_zps6bfcbf80.jpg

Baffled and shit

[url=http://s236.photobucket.com/user/fatzgtsr/media/pete%20gtr/s2%20r33%20gtr/image_zps52ed1d07.jpg.html]image_zps52ed1d07.jpg[/url

Plan is to run a electric oil pump below the air filters that's triggered by the haltech when over 6k rpm and a set boost level, this will suck from the nismo catch can to the passengers side dash ten

Then a dash 12 vent to the oil cap

And a dash 12 drain from the second oil tank

Are they gate hinges?

Stainless door hinges I thought lol

sooo you ladies dont like my flaps?

lol

super jealous of catch can system (stupid East-west engine), I read back a few pages and cant find detailed info on what the setup will be

lucky for you i knowcked up this awesome diagram

i do belive it will answer all questions

on the potential awesomness of my proposed system

catch can.pdf

lucky for you i knowcked up this awesome diagram

i do belive it will answer all questions

on the potential awesomness of my proposed system

attachicon.gifcatch can.pdf

Thanks. As complicated as an oil cooler setup with filter relocation kit lol

Will look into getting an electric oil pump for mine too

Yea hook me up

You shorted your issues?

I've got fittings welded to the sump, I'm just going to let the oil drain back and do its own thing *fingers crossed.

Turbowerx pump cost me just under $500 delivered, flick me a PM with an offer I can't refuse :) It comes with -6 AN in and out fittings but you can get others if they are too small/big.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151158789695

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...