Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea baby

3 x 20 minute session today at ec and oil only got to 115 degrees and water to 99

We're back baby

Only ran on the rsr,s and down to a 1:50. Rubber is well farked and the rear brakes went metal to metal

Also speed was up to 210 with the lower engine temps today

Trust ic pipes sorted the ic pipe issue out

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

new rear pads in

latest mod was two child restrains for the rear

also pulled the harness bar out and put in some parcel tray bolts in so i can run a harnes and fit the baby seat in

after driving it all weekend i cant wait for the q7 to come back from its service

noise, bumpy pos

  • 3 months later...

So I have been thrashing the shit out of this thing regularly and the f**ker just won't die

After the crash bang boom of shock works I changed to HSD and they we're heaps better

Decided to punt the HSD on feedback from a few Tarmac guys

And picked up a set of tein circuit master rs coils for it

They have been rebuilt to tarmack rally specs by race pace

Apparently they are the shit to have

And someone else has already done he hard work

imagejpg1_zpsc3deade4.jpg

I have some cool shit for this car that I have been collecting and I think next month is time for a proper update with more fasts

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
    • Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear...   Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!
    • ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others.   My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly.   ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.
×
×
  • Create New...