Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh, when I first went for a ride in a car with RPM modified Teins I went out the next week and bought some and sent them off to RPM. They are damn good things and suspect its all in the valving more than the spring rates.

Had to grab a second pair when I went GTR rear cradle and got the chance to do another set...largely the reason why my thing even as a rwd car cant blazed 2nd gear with 330rwkws...just traction and hooks up!

What sized rim are you running? Thought of throwing some Carrera Cup slicks at it?

Yeh, when I first went for a ride in a car with RPM modified Teins I went out the next week and bought some and sent them off to RPM. They are damn good things and suspect its all in the valving more than the spring rates.

Had to grab a second pair when I went GTR rear cradle and got the chance to do another set...largely the reason why my thing even as a rwd car cant blazed 2nd gear with 330rwkws...just traction and hooks up!

What sized rim are you running? Thought of throwing some Carrera Cup slicks at it?

yea they sell themselves these shocks

awesome!

run a 10.5 inch rim

i have thought about the slicks but have been too lazy to put some on

Come to my joint

Bring six pack

And you can have a look while I drink beer

Will do. How far is your place from WA?

Struggling to understand why the F/R rate differential. Should hook up with that soft a rear spring. Just worried youd never get on the gas because of the front rate?

Will do. How far is your place from WA?

Struggling to understand why the F/R rate differential. Should hook up with that soft a rear spring. Just worried youd never get on the gas because of the front rate?

Why the rear is a lot softer than the front? You need the car to squat to get the power down.

Why the rear is a lot softer than the front? You need the car to squat to get the power down.

No you dont. Not in a GTR on the track. Maybe for drags and maybe for rally style stuff where you cant carry all the corner speed that is available but not for the track. The thing that kills you is understeer, not lack of traction. A large F/R spring rate differential makes the car push.

ill ever get a alignment for the next track day and maybe adjusted slightly to take into account my 140kg girth

You've slimmed down?

New filters in still missing

Compression test showed 160,158, 150, 138, 135, 160

Ill try some new plugs and coils just to make sure then it's off to dvsjez to have the fuel pressure checked and protection added to the haltech

Might be time for the new motor

So this pos is now booked in to Jez to get some new engine love on the 18th

So hopefully it will be back with additional compression

New engine has som e cool shit

big sump

front lsd

hks 2530

port match manifolds

hks dump pipes

some cams

cam gears

nizmo plenum

Hks ic

Ill also get the egt sensors installed and some fuel pressure protection

Then book it into a few track days

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...