Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So your saying (160 rwkw) "ONLY" which equates to 208kw at the engine, which is what everyone uses...car dealerships etc... a brand new showroom falcon xr6 has what 210kw???? except its 2013 technologoy, not half 86 half 96.....over 20 year old parts..... "ONLY"

So your saying (160 rwkw) "ONLY" which equates to 208kw at the engine, which is what everyone uses...car dealerships etc... a brand new showroom falcon xr6 has what 210kw???? except its 2013 technologoy, not half 86 half 96.....over 20 year old parts..... "ONLY"

Ok it is a good amount but it is not in any way remarkable look at the hp per cc it is fairly average considering you can buy a r1 tune it and make near 200hp.

Also the e36 BMW's can make 300hp with a few mods the xr6 falcon is pretty much the same engine from the xf's just with 4 valves per cylinder. What is the hp per cc or ci of a xr6 compared to some older cars there are some that do near the same.

Edited by pf.

Ok it is a good amount but it is not in any way remarkable look at the hp per cc it is fairly average considering you can buy a r1 tune it and make near

Also the e36 BMW's can make 300hp with a few mods the xr6 falcon is pretty much the same engine from the xf's just with 4 valves per cylinder. What is the hp per cc or ci of a xr6 compared to some older cars there are some that do near the same.

Yer it's just like an xf, you know apart from having an over head cam, wait make that two cams not one, oh and 4 valves per cylinder.... Yer..... It's identical :dry:

Already got one bro but the build on that will be epic when I can afford it. The 25/30 will be turbo and forecasts are in the region of 30k for that build the 30/25 will be cheap as possible porting and chamber work will be the big cost.

even at trade prices, etc, you will be spending many thousands to get anywhere near 160kw at the wheels. as i think i said in an earlier post, a mate of mine built a rb30 from the ground up in his r31 and it only made just over 230hp. this thing had a lot of work done. major head work, cams, crank was modified to flow more oil, twin throttle bodies, big injectors, etc, and it reved to 8 or 9k. from what i gather, it may have been the fastest non turbo rb30 in australia (ran a high 13). his old man was an engine builder and had been using rb30s in his speedway cars from the 90's, and was the first person i knew with an imported skyline (had a turbo 31 back in the early to mid 90's).

so to try and similar power with 500cc less is going to be hard work, and the car will drive like an absolute dog (i know my mates did).

as for comparing new engines to old engines, you can't really. they were built in different eras with different regulations and objectives. newer engines run closer to the limit to begin with as this helps them with emissions, and there isn't much in the way of technology advances that can be used to get bigger gains.

but as i also said earlier, i'm happy to be proven wrong about the power you make, but i have a pretty good idea of how poor the reliability is going to be getting anywhere near that power. i know how often my mate had to rebuild his car (but it did have a hard life. was primarily used for drag and burnout comps, but was still registered)

Im probably at 10k and im hoping to make over 160kw atw...wouldnt know yet till its tuned, alot of time and money is spent to do this sort of project. but back on topic...i dont understand what your trying to ask? you want help with putting an rb30 head on an rb25 block....if no one has done it (which no one commented has) then how do you sugest we can "help"..... if hasnt been done there probably is a reason...but by all means do it so when your budget built is better than the 10K plus wasted you can laugh in my face :)

pf its good that you are thinking outside the box mate but for the$$$ that you are spending you are not going to get much bang for your buck~dont take this as being negative

take it as being realistic

I'd hope that anyone doing up an N/A RB motor would be aware of the costs involved, OP I'd say that head design is going to be absolutely critical for your goals (that and a lot of compression).

I recall seeing a triple carb RB30 HR31 from R31House on youtube a while ago, sounded cool too, could always try pissing off the pesky fuel injection? FWIW, 202's are regarded as a lump of a motor as well.

For the money, I'd be putting an LS in it, because you'll probably be spending a similar amount :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok a bit of an update head was checked by me and was bent it can be straightened. The straightening will increase compression greatly but he 25 block will drop it greatly so I have some numbers to play with :) So far the head is going to cost me about 2500 I plan on spending 2k on the computer and ignition so to come under the 10k mark it leaves me with 5k for block and fuel system. Costs will blow out so I have to play it safe with my money.

The head price is service,porting,machining and a cam.

so you are spending 10k on an NA 30 Head with 25 block?

This is quite possibly the worst idea I have ever read on a car forum. For 10k do something decent .... even though I hate the idea you can get an Ls1 crate engine for around 6k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...