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IMO, based purely on observations thats because its very hard to rebuild an engine thats as well balanced as a good stock motor out of the factory. I've been in a few stock engine GTRs and a few rebuilt motors and the 2 or 3 rebuilt ones Ive had contact with all feel like they have bad vibrations and balance purely from a mechanical point of view, nothing to do with the tune, and I say this because even when you rev the engine to say 4000rpm and kill the engine it grinds to a halt like a tractor engine. Thats purely the momentum of the parts coming to a stop.

I knew a guy that had the stock motor, his car ran smooth, did a full rebuilt for some reason or another and afterwards the engine ran very coarse coarse. I think the vibrations just cause so much more friction and stresses on components that you end up spinning a bearing or breaking a rod or scraping the cylinder wall from piston slap etc. I'd rather have a 500hp well built and tuned stock internals motor than a 700hp fully rebuilt one.

Then they were build wrong

  • Like 2

Then they were build wrong

Possibly. I don't claim to be knowledgeable in the engine building department by any means, just some experiences I've had. You get what I'm saying by revving the engine and killing power to feel the harmonics of the engine? Its one of the first tests I perform when looking at a car. On the the hand a well tuned engine feels so much more alive, composed and sharp than a stock motor, it really makes you see just how junk and dimwitted the stock ECU is on the R32 to R34 range.

Edited by sonicz
  • 2 months later...

After 8 months and an empty back account, the car is ready to hit the track once again! It's a been a huge head f**k but hopefully it's all been worth it. I've now either refreshed or replaced every signficiant component on the car since I bought it.

Will be out at SMSP on the North Circuit for the Interclub Supersprint this Saturday, should be fun! Never been through turn 1 at SMSP so I'm looking forward to it!

Cheers guys wish me luck! :cheers:

  • Like 2

Hard to tell. Most of it appeared to be red oil leaking from the transfer case, but it was dropping coolant and regular ass oil as well.

There also seems to be a small leak in the engine bay somewhere around the right hand side steering boot.

Hard to tell. Most of it appeared to be red oil leaking from the transfer case, but it was dropping coolant and regular ass oil as well.

There also seems to be a small leak in the engine bay somewhere around the right hand side steering boot.

well that's not so bad (although frustrating of course).

do you have the breather extension on the transfer case? It should end on top of the gearbox bellhousing where it bolts to the motor. If yes, you can be sure it is a leak not just the xfer case breathing. If no, it will be hard to tell (so add a breather!). If it is a leak the fitting at the rear to the resoviour is a common point, try nipping it up. Also possible check the drain plug. If neither of those it is probably the o-ring at the rear of the case.

The leak at the DS steering boot will be from the block where the oil filter is stock. What oil filter setup do you have? in any case check tightness there, although it can be really hard to get to properly.

For coolant it can be lots of places. Get a pressure test done, until you do there is nothing but frustration ahead because apart from just the leak, you will also lose coolant under pressure, eventually resulting in overheating (or continual top ups)

well that's not so bad (although frustrating of course).

do you have the breather extension on the transfer case? It should end on top of the gearbox bellhousing where it bolts to the motor. If yes, you can be sure it is a leak not just the xfer case breathing. If no, it will be hard to tell (so add a breather!). If it is a leak the fitting at the rear to the resoviour is a common point, try nipping it up. Also possible check the drain plug. If neither of those it is probably the o-ring at the rear of the case.

The leak at the DS steering boot will be from the block where the oil filter is stock. What oil filter setup do you have? in any case check tightness there, although it can be really hard to get to properly.

For coolant it can be lots of places. Get a pressure test done, until you do there is nothing but frustration ahead because apart from just the leak, you will also lose coolant under pressure, eventually resulting in overheating (or continual top ups)

Thanks for the advice dunc. Is the breather extension OEM or an aftermarket item? Will have to check when I get it up on stands.

I have the HKS Oil filter relocator kit, which didn't appear to have any oil leaking from it. Also it was a coolant leak dropping on the steering boot, so a presure test it is!

I'm bummed for ya man, hope you sort it out tho.

No need to bummed my man, a bad day at the race track is better than a good day at the office! Except it's a lot more expensive!

  • Like 2

Yeah it's got a pretty serious catch can setup.

In other news, it also has a "boost scramble" button on it for some reason

11745417_10155846924365301_8800866880950

Now I just need a screen that flashes "Warning!!! Danger to Manifold!" when I press it.

lol silver is partly to find leaks, its much easier to see what is happening when everything is not black on black.

both the xfer case and gerbox have breathers from the factory, they a plastic lines that run to the top of the bellhousing.

A coolant leak near the RH steering rack is most likely from one of the water lines under the manifold. Like the oil it drops from the block, pools on top of the diff, then runs off backwards (over the steering rack) or forwards (over the front diff cover)

  • 1 month later...

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