Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, silencium said:

Lol what does that has to do about the question?

Well, putting the grey mush in my head to work, I cannot see how the 200ms that it would take to purge the air out of an oil gallery feeding the head when the oil pressure behind it starts to rise is going to make any difference at all to how much wear the head sees on start up.  I don't know if you've ever looked under a cam cover with the engine off.....but there's lots of oil sitting up there.

Check valves are a 0.0001% thing.

Lately I was testing a camshaft for run out with a dial gauge. For that I put it on flipped front an rear bearing cap with some oil in between of course. Well after turning the cam approx 10 times by hand, the caps already had scorring marks despite the oil.

So without oil pressure that is all much more delicate than one might think.

Also the cam installed an all, there is a lot of load on it from the valve springs.

If oem there are check valves, I want to go with them again

Thats why I want to know

The check valves behind the oil filter have another purpose. These are pressure controlled and open only if the oil pressure reaches a certain point, for example when the filter would be clogged.

I have found these pics before also, but these are not original nissan, but from a tuner... Even though it is a japanese tuner, that doesn't mean its all superbe.

I get it that you two do not think there are check valves... But I still want to know what originally the case is.

Oil filters have there own pressure release valve , they also have an anti drain back valve (check valve) that holds oil in the filter. 

I've stripped and cleaned three RB's (20,25,26) over the years and i can certainly say there were no check valves in any feed to the head what so ever. Brake cleaner and air pass easily back through the orifices without a problem.

There is simply no need for them.

 

  • Like 1

The check valve on an RB25 is in the oil cooler not the block

I thought the standard restrictors had check valves but guess not. As I said previously, I never gave it a second thought. 5 years later and my head is still fine

As for the above about rotating the cams etc. And there being score marks - something else is going on there. I rotated mine several times while building my engine and no marks/scoring
Engines are not that fragile that they will die after 2 seconds without oil (at idle) on startup. Have you ever watched how long it takes for oil pressure to come up after doing a service?

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

 

On 24/03/2018 at 6:47 PM, Ben C34 said:

P115_lube01.gif

The Japanese bit before 2.0 says Normal , as in original. That's not a check valve.

for anyone's future reference - the OEM oil restrictors on an RB25 are absolutely a 1-way valve. Floating-ball type, not spring loaded. Just under 1.5mm diameter.

58 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:

 

for anyone's future reference - the OEM oil restrictors on an RB25 are absolutely a 1-way valve. Floating-ball type, not spring loaded. Just under 1.5mm diameter.

You got a picture?

1 hour ago, hardsteppa said:

Have a brand new one sitting in my garage, but it won't show much unless i cut it open. Air will only flow thru it one way; direction of flow to the head.

What engine? Neo?

 

When are you cutting it open?

  • 2 years later...

Currently in the process off building a rb25 engine but for some reason my rb25 block doesn’t have the vct oil feed plan is to put a rb25de head on it with the vct oil port can anyone tell me or give any advice to if it can work and what do I need to doo?

 

On 9/12/2022 at 10:12 PM, sachin said:

Currently in the process off building a rb25 engine but for some reason my rb25 block doesn’t have the vct oil feed plan is to put a rb25de head on it with the vct oil port can anyone tell me or give any advice to if it can work and what do I need to doo?

 

NEO's did not have an external VCT drain like the S1/S2's. I also recall the NEO heads having chamber differences. With that being said, I'm not confident you can bolt an S1/S2 head onto a NEO block but wait for someone who's more knowledgeable on the topic to chime in. 

You can bolt a vanilla 25 head onto a Neo block. But....

  1. The Neo chambers are ~10cc smaller than the vanillas. With almost the same comp ratio, that means that the piston crowns are a lot lower on the Neo. Thus, Neo head on vanilla block makes for a low comp piece of shit. You then need to go to a lot of effort with pistons and rods to get the comp back.
  2. The VCT oil drain thing.
  3. And, lots of other little annoyances. Want to bolt the vanilla inlet manifold to the Neo? Can be done, but the port match is not the same. (I'm reasonably sure of that, but perhaps check). If so, then choosing between the Neo manifold and the vanilla manifold starts to impact on ECU peripherals, like the IACV. Again, not insurmountable - just shit you have to take care of to make it work (unless aftermarket ECU, in which case, it makes little difference).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...