R34 Build/diary

[B-rice]

yeah thanks will put every connection and reconnect hopefully its a loose connection somewhere.

[sweefu]

Good job doing the clutch mate!
Another trick to stop the flywheel turning is to put a socket on the crank pulley with a long breaker bar, and let the end of the bar rest on the ground, then the flywheel won't turn.

[iruvyouskyrine]

But it will start to undo the harmonic balancer bolt if its too loose.

[B-rice]

You could tighten it after I guess. Next time I'll buy a VW buggy flywheel lock, they are identical to the rare RB ones.

[XRATED]

just use a bearing shell...

[B-rice]

United decided to roll out E85 pumps in Canberra, so was super excited and filled the car up with it. Driving out to the Friday meet the smell of E85 was stronger than usual, but i just thought it because of the higher content. Got to the meet and when i was parking my mates told me to cut the engine straight away. Had a big trail of fuel flowing me due to a leak. Somehow managed to leak through the middle fitting on the fuel lid. Could have been nicked when i was loading things into the boot.

so now im thinking of this putting AN fittings but will probably lose this part that goes underneath not sure what its function is? Will be trying it out on a donor piece which also had the fitting snapped off seems like a common problem to happen.

[D.I.Y. Mik]

But it will start to undo the harmonic balancer bolt if its too loose.

No, the balancer is reverse thread.

As far as i remember.

[iruvyouskyrine]

No, the balancer is reverse thread.

As far as i remember.

Pretty sure that is not correct, happy to be proven wrong though as i don't want to spread false info!

[r32-25t]

Balancer is right hand thread (normal)

[B-rice]

Was sick of getting wet on the the motorcycle so i sourced out another MAP sensor while i wait for Vipec to send me another. Car ran well no cut at start the start of building boost. It all went well for two days. Then Friday night coming from the meet, the car decided to die on me. its cranked and cranked but didnt start.Checked fuel and spark no problems, surely one wouldnt loose compression that fast. Thanks to the legendary mates I had we managed to push the car out from the road into a bush so no f%krs would do anything to it, drove to pick up a car trailer and towed the car back home. Now its to find a MAP sensor.

Although it hasnt been hot lately seems like my pleenum gets over 105degrees which then breaks the sensors. The sensor is mounted on the plenum where ive taped a 1/8npt hole for it. Whats weird is that the IAT sensor has never gone over 83 degrees on a very hot day.So im on the search for a sensor with a wider range of operation. An alternative is to use barb fitting with a vacuum line that goes to the sensor to minimize the heat at the sensor.

[jake26]

Good read mate! Bit unfortunate about the few issues lately but, all the best!

[B-rice]

Been a few months of trying to iron out various issues, bought a turbo off a member which I only found out that it was the cause of smoke coming out during decel. Sent the turbo to hypergear he found out that the a Vl compressor was used to hybrid the turbo and i wasnt done properly. Got the turbo highflowed again for the latest 21U highflow.

Also just after changing the clutch i developed a strong cut out as soon as i started making boost. Took me a while to find the problem and it turned out to be a map sensor that had kak'd. Initially i thought it was the rubber intake closing shut but i was wrong. So bought a texas instrument sensor, hopefully it will stand to the test.

Fixed up the starting issue turned out that the ECU was still in protection mode, the car would star but would die after applying throttle. The cold start was redone as it was tuned in summer 33+ degrees. Now it starts like a dream even at 3degrees in the morning. While the car was at the tuners it made more power due to the changed highflow profile. Didnt get it tuned till the turbo runs outer puff, but rather 18psi dropping down to 16psi , if anyone is curious what they can do it made 318kws at 20psi but ill keep it at 18psi for now very safe atm and will crank the boost later.

tune was done at E76 i would have probably got 320kw at 20psi if the content was 85%.

[Manuel Kasko]

I can't work out if I should E85 my SS1PU or just highflow the turbo on my 34.
You will have to take me for a spin when I get back to AUS.

Can you pm me how you found esp and if it was costly?

It seems like they did a pretty good job here

[B-rice]

Check both graphs for the OP6 and SS1. Not sure which one is more responsive with enough power for you.SS1 seems like the most favorable atm. Thought about VNT yet?

[dontyellpl0x]

Love the build Bryce, shame about all these small issues

[Manuel Kasko]

Check both graphs for the OP6 and SS1. Not sure which one is more responsive with enough power for you.SS1 seems like the most favorable atm. Thought about VNT yet?

Yeah I will have to try find someone who has similar results to you on a SS1

My power goal is 300rwkw on E85 with similar boost to you.

Might have to do some digging

[B-rice]

Been a while since last update.Too busy with uni sh#t. Anyway Ive bought a few items that Im yet to install. Theyre just sitting there waiting for me.
Did a couple of speed of the streets days. I can say the power level is getting tame for me. But on the other hand I needed a better brake setup and suspension tweaking.

So purchased a full set of Rotors and Endless mx92 pads. While i was working on the brakes changed to braided lines and rebuild calipers. There's a possibility, the rubber was expanding when it got hot reducing the pressure going to the pistons. So bough braided lines hoping it would reduce this.

Started from this

To this

Then this

Initially the braided line kit it sent had to be linked up with my hard lines at the calipers. Wasnt for this idea so talked to Dan from Hel, he was quite happy to redesign it according to my specs. Now future R34 lines should come as a full line with a 90 bend at the caliper.

I usually don't want to mess around with the brakes, particularly with the speeds I hit a the track. I had a go to the fullest extent if they didnt feel great i would take it to a shop. Sorta beneficial as im going to be a mechanical engineer in a year.
Since i dont have much assistance decided i should make a one man bledder. Bought a pressure sprayer from Bunnings and taped a gauge onto it. Picked up a resevoir lid from the wreckers which turned out to be useless anyway.

First attempt at bleeding the brakes didn't quite work well. Being a newbie the master cylinder had gone completely dry when i removed the calipers to rebuild them. So bled the system without bleeding the master cylinder, of-coarse this didn't work very well. So I took it out bench bled it. On my first attempt i had a problem with my pressure bleeder. It didn't seal very well at the top of the resevoir so fluid leaked and didn't pressurize the lines.

Took a perspex sheet drilled through it and ran hooks that would pull the chain in effect sealing the reservoir. Worked well so bled it again. On second attempt got a perfect firm brake pressure but i didn't have the initial bite. Did some research and seems like there was air in the ABS unit. To take it out I would need the nissan-consult to cycle through the different motors. Fortunately or unfortunately for some there's a redneck way of getting of the air by locking up your brakes to activate the ABS unit. Did it three times and i had a perfect initial bite with noticable added stopping power.

[R34_luvr]

Looks great [emoji108] fantastic effort!

[B-rice]

Im terms of perfomance managed to save up for a plazmaman plenum with 72mm throttle body. It came raw as I was going to powdercoat it anyway. Before coating it i fittted it to the car to quickly work out how I would need to locate things.

After test fitting seems like the plenum will block the access to the oil filter, so an oil filter relocation kit is on the books.The pressure reg has to be relocated. I could run the plenum without removing the battery. This would mean i have to make lobster bends for it to work. Memorex tube was used to model the fitment from the plenum to the intercooler. Took it out carefully then taped it so it doesnt lose the shape. Now the task it to out out pieces similar to this then tig weld them all together.

Though i could run the plenum with the battery, opted the option of relocating it to the back. Went around to ask how much this would cost and its pretty damn expensive to move the battery to the back. So Ill be invoking the consultancy of SAU to go about this the right way.

Doesnt seem like a hard job but light the car on fire if not done right. Will be back with more updates.

[MrFijiGold]

Im doing same mods regarding intake setup. Keen to see how you tackle the battery relocation.