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On 15/02/2024 at 8:35 AM, Lithium said:

I'll have to get some logs when I do a little bit more work on an R34 GT-R I've been helping set up.

So we had a bit of a session today and didn't have much chance to test it perfectly for the point of this thread but the theme seemed to be it can hit 1bar close enough to 4000rpm in 3rd gear, give or take a little and man it feels a lot perkier between 3000-4000 than the -5s.  

  • 4 weeks later...
On 15/02/2024 at 8:35 AM, Lithium said:

I'll have to get some logs when I do a little bit more work on an R34 GT-R I've been helping set up.  Stock engine, 272deg cams, and a divided hotside Pulsar G35 900 with .85a/r T4 divided hotside and it drives fantastic - it's enough of an improvement over the old -5s that no data is really needed from our point of view to make a call on whether it's more responsive under foot to drive but boost threshold is always a handy metric.  

I'm far from saying that the G35 would be a good choice for the kind of thing you're looking into, more what I'm suggesting is "G-series" turbos seem to respond very well to divided hotsides and middling a/rs (obviously ensuring that it's not so small as to choke the given setup).   If a static cam RB26 drives like this R34 does with a 80+lb/min turbo, then I can imagine a 60lb/min equivalent match on a VCT RB25 would be fantastic. 

Interesting (but I suppose not massively surprising) the dyno plot doesn't put this car across as THAT much better down low than it was with the -5s, the old "transient response" beast back with a vengeance.  I guess you'll have to take my (and every other person who has been in or driven it) word that the car is a completely different beast now, feels WAY more alive basically everywhere.   Holds power better, "wakes up" faster under foot.  It's generally a significantly faster and better car to drive, beyond what the plot shows.

Anyway, only changes here are swapping from low mount -5s to a Pulsar G35 900, and from a stock Nissan RB26 intake manifold to a Hypertune single throttle jobby.   On the dyno pull it doesn't really pick up noticeably harder until it's got about 10psi into it, then it gets from there up to target boost a good 500rpm earlier. 

Same boost, same fuel (98 pump gas), same dyno:
image.thumb.png.dd04a716f335b23af26c41d575161562.png
Note: This is both 22psi.  It's a stock RB26 aside from cams, the turbo was chosen for headroom - and there should be HEAPS in it with a built engine and ethanol flowing through it's veins.

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 2
22 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Interesting (but I suppose not massively surprising) the dyno plot doesn't put this car across as THAT much better down low than it was with the -5s, the old "transient response" beast back with a vengeance.  I guess you'll have to take my (and every other person who has been in or driven it) word that the car is a completely different beast now, feels WAY more alive basically everywhere.   Holds power better, "wakes up" faster under foot.  It's generally a significantly faster and better car to drive, beyond what the plot shows.

This is what I was getting to with regards to the whole N/A V8 thing. A dyno shows the result as much worse, but in terms of how 'alive' the car feels afterwards, it's night and day, better in every way, there's no copium, I prefer my 280kw setup over my 430kw setup.

image.thumb.jpeg.cc4c2920010bd041d97372a939f3a07c.jpeg

This was me doing predictions before I did the swap, I make about ~10kw more everywhere than the blue line, but chalk and cheese in terms of liveliness. I understand what Lithium is trying to say with his dyno graphs that look mostly the same in his case, but one is vastly superior in the real world. The blue line looks laughably bad on the dyno graph in my case, which really highlights the point.

People absolutely, absolutely, completely underrate how important transient response is to how much fun a car is, how it feels, and how much you can trust a car, which means you can drive the thing faster, and if you are going faster and using 70% of the throttle, and trusting, and pushing, it's a far more fun, complete, and faster experience than feeling like you can't go beyond 50% of your throttle use but damn your dyno plot looks great.

  • Like 5
  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/3/2021 at 1:22 PM, LaurelPWR said:

I would say I’m sorry for reviving an old thread, but I’m not, so I won’t.

......soooooo.......after literally 5 years of planning and slowly gathering parts, I finally got my HTA3076 1.01ar twin scroll setup on the rollers for the first time.

S13, rb25 s1, forged Ross pistons, acl bearings, Oem crank and rods, Oem oil pump, Cometic 1.1 head gasket, standard head with hks 256 8.8 in / 264 9.1 ex cams and performance springs kit, RB26 itbs oversized to 49mm and a cnc port matched Rb26 nismo plenum all mounted using a RIPS RB25 neo cut&shut adapter also port matched, Bosch 1650cc injectors on a custom mounted genuine HKS fuel rail, genuine R31house version 2 twin scroll manifold with individual egt’s on each runner, hta3076 genuine garrett 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, 4” stainless exhaust from turbo back with 4” AES butterfly valve off the dump and AES 4” muffler, all stainless piping and intake with true 4” HPI stainless mesh pod, HKS TypeR 103mm thick S13 intercooler, genuine ARC r32 gtr grille oil cooler/washer-oil catch/rad swirl pot/reservoir,  blitz radiator & 2x 14” ultra slim maradyne puller fans, ross balencer, PRP trigger kit, PRP r35 coil kit + splitfire r35 coils, ARD alternator and PRP bracket, hks ex cam gear, Greddy intake rb25 VCT cam gear, greddy type R bov custom anodised PRP purple, hks timing belt, link Fury G4+ ecu and 12volt performance custom wiring, AIM link colour dash, 4 bar map sensor, Turbosmart fpr, 1x walbro 255 lift/2x walbro 460 in tank, Taarks v3 surge tank, all lines replaced and upgraded for everything, tial 38mm MVS external gates both with screamers etc. etc.

Graph is only on gate pressure with 20spi springs, the exhaust 4” butterfly is closed and there is zero boost control turned on.

It will be returned to the Dyno once wideband is sorted properly in the dump, then it will get 30psi and an open 4” butterfly. It’s already quite responsive with 300whp & 20psi at 3500rpm. This Dyno is a renowned heart breaker so I’m pretty happy so far with the resultant response.

0FB49264-B324-4710-9A09-C30B7B551E73.jpeg

18EC0CDF-4025-4F65-9505-52A4894F7374.jpeg

Dredgggggeeee time;

I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system.

I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune.

now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune.

still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads.

all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi.

the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above.

car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far.

IMG_4648.jpeg

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Edited by LaurelPWR
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops.

I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?

Hahahahah, look, your not wrong 😂😂

and thank you brother 🙏🏼

jokes aside, I haven't driven the car in 6+ years and it's like I'm starting all over again, and furthermore the car is wayyyy more powerful and it's characteristics are night and day different now compared to what I remember. So I'm slowly easing myself back into the groove, the car is literally scaring me a bit tbh.....it feels like it has 200hp more than it does on paper and responds like a cammed Ls v8, and-some! 😅 every single bit of throttle pedal travel and input has instant response all the way to the floor, zero flat spots or labouring feelings, it's nuts.

Im shooketh, go easy on me hahahaha or don't 🤙🏼😊

 

 

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Edited by LaurelPWR
  • Like 1

That is correct,  I have a forged RB25/30det NEO hiding away safely and I wanted to use the very rare greddy vct adj cam gear on this new setup and so I just used the whole thing on my s1 instead of pulling it appear because I'm lazy af 😅🤌🏼

  • Like 1

Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲

But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

That's actually encouraging to be honest.

my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼

I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...

  • Like 1

For anyone interested, this is my old graph from 2021, but I've plotted the previous setup curve onto it with a black pen.

old setup was:

pon cams, oem itbs and plenum, HPI manifold, hks 2835 pro S .87ar rear, Turbosmart actuator, 3" turbo back no res. or cat., greddy spec M fmic, nismo 740cc inj, walbro in tank 460, splitfires, 4" intake pipe, Apexi pod, e85, eboost2, power Fc.

I love that the new setup has much larger turbo spec with the HTA3076 1.01ar Ts rear, and literally everything is bigger, but far higher quality and result is it's FAR more responsive in paper.

IMG_4970.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
On 1/6/2025 at 5:33 PM, LaurelPWR said:

 

IMG_4970.jpeg


cool update imho.....

so in reality it makes 20-24psi at around 3000-3100rpm.

It's far quicker on the street than it ever was previously. More updates soon, will be getting a new laptop soon and so will have some actual data for you all, cheers legends.

Potentially some interesting data for some of you here;
Hank Iroz from Iroz Motorsport testing a new Xona Rotor 5964S on a Audi RS3 2.5L DAZA motor.
https://facebook.com/share/p/14EU18MyDqZ/


Cliff Notes:
Turbo has the new Xona XRE compressor aero with an X4C compressor cover, reportedly 0.64 rear housing.
5964S.png


900whp (670kw) @ 37psi, 170k shaft speed, motor is making 2bar (29psi) boost by roughly 3800rpm, 500lbft (670nm) torque by 3500rpm.

They overlaid a stock RS3 on USA 91 fuel (red), and a "Stage 2" RS3 on E85 (yellow), and this 5964S (blue) - the 5964S isn't losing any ground to either.
5964S comp.png


Apparently out-flowing their prior tests with a Xona 8264S (green),
and this 5964S (white) also has a smaller A/R than that did.

5964S vs 8264S.png

Edited by jdniss

Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff.

Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 

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