Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have a 32gtr. The engine has everything under the sun done to it. It has -5s and makes great power. The problem is not great power figures it's low down power out of corners. I'm thinking this problem may be due to 280 cams in it. What do you guys think? The car has been very finely tuned so I don't expect this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426530-need-more-down-low-for-the-track/
Share on other sites

It is a2.6ltr, 98 octane fuel with octane booster the tune was done by dr drift then by cosmic performance.

It sound like people are making great power and response from the stock cams. But I'm not sure they would use all of the rev range up top that the engine was built for...

Cheers guys!

Have you considered using the next gear down, to keep the engine in its power band?

What if you're at 4000 in second... Not quite enough on a massive cammed 2.6 with 5's to really get a wriggle on.... You're not gonna go back to first are you?

The boys pretty well have it nailed for you mate. Jew brew, smaller duration cams, this is depending on what has been hacked out of the head as well, a good free flowing exhaust, a good cold air system and some time on the dump with a set of cam gears. Failing that, a 6266 is a good option.

It is a2.6ltr, 98 octane fuel with octane booster the tune was done by dr drift then by cosmic performance.

It sound like people are making great power and response from the stock cams. But I'm not sure they would use all of the rev range up top that the engine was built for...

Cheers guys!

So what are you spinning the motor up to exactly? Because realistically you wouldn't build a motor to spin to 9,000rpm+ and then put -5s on it as there is no need.

My stock cams were fine to 8500rpm for example with -5s... Power had not fallen off at all.

280s are madness either way for -5s, terrible match

Potentially get flamed for suggesting this. Oh well here goes anyway.

Guys above I believe are on the money. DO this ^

do you run a Torque/split controller ?

considered replacing your OEM G sensor ? with a Do Luck Tarzan G or the Midori unit.

the mines 34GTR is so responsive coz of the diff ratios despite the 2530's on RB26. Either a 4.11 or 4.4 ratio would be off tap, obviously the top end end would be compromised a bit, but who cares

mines GTR response is unreal

Edited by discoPumpkin

You are all missing the point. Odds are it would be cheaper to get the thing through the corners quicker...then you have more revs on exit and more revs means more power.

So what suspension and tyres/rims size are you running. Cams or no cams -5s can work perfectly well on a 2.6L so if the thing is laggy on exit I think you need to get through the corner quicker

You are all missing the point. Odds are it would be cheaper to get the thing through the corners quicker...then you have more revs on exit and more revs means more power.

So what suspension and tyres/rims size are you running. Cams or no cams -5s can work perfectly well on a 2.6L so if the thing is laggy on exit I think you need to get through the corner quicker

Totally agree.

Driving style is another.

How long is a piece of string.

If your at a tight track you may suffer but at a faster track it may be perfect. Set up is about compromises and wont be perfect for every corner. Just keep trying to get your lap-times down. I would be listening to Roy before i go touching the engine.

Yeah but massive lift big duration cams (280*) are made for a gt42 45 55 ect sized turbo. Just not really suited to smaller twins. Twin 3037s and a 1/4 drag strip is a different story. Tomei type b's are tried and proven with -5's on the track and even a drag strip strip. As R31Nismoid said -5's and 280* cams are just a extreme mismatch. I do also agree with roys comment to a extent as well.

Cheers josh

omg, OP never once stated getting a bigger engine was an option, oh and the RB26 has to be one of the best know motors for track use for it's mid to top end power, reliability and revs.

I agree with Jim and changing the diffs, and the other guys in swapping the cams, and finally making sure it has good soft tyres for grip to enter the corners fast as poss. That will make a big difference to response

Thanks for all your responses guys. I know the cams are to big (they were in when I got the car). I run semi slims and custom coilovers on the track. I'm not sure that corner speed is the problem. Eg on sandown in the tight section it feels like I should be cornering in third but find that to get good power down out of the corner I need to be in second. Second I need to rev the car to 9+g and third is a bit sluggish out.

Would my engine specs help?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...