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Auxiliary Air Control valve. From those sounds, I'd be looking at a fuel related issue. If cleaning the AAC didn't fix it, something tells me it might be fuel. Its hard to tell from the video but it sounds like its lean popping and not enough fuel at that RPM.

Ive had a number of coilpacks fail on me and most times they never presented a symptom at idle or free revving. I had a failing fuel pump. Car was hard to start, you couldn't free rev it, let alone drive the car without it gurgling, popping and carrying on.

cleaning out the AAC didnt change a thing, it was pretty clean anyway.

and i haven't tried another AFM yet, is it worth buying one to make sure the current AFM is not at fault?

and what do you mean by solder fixing my current one?

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Did the problem only start after the new pump, or was it there before?

If it's popping at light throttle only then I doubt it will be pump related as it would get worse the further up the rev range.

I'd put it down to either an intake leak somewhere, such as a vacuum hose or gasket. There is always the chance that it is related to the tps sensor or crank angle sensor or even knock sensors though. Unfortunately, it really is a bit of a case of keep trying stuff until something fixes it though. You could try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps at all.

I'm about to go through a similar battle with my Commodore. It has a misfire when just off idle (such as creeping along in slow traffic). I'm going to start by cleaning the throttle body, aac and intake (already done plugs at last service and cleaned afm)

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Yes, some pumps don't like the low power the stock fuel computer puts out at cruise and idle. You can try running a temporary direct power feed, or just do the fuel pump rewire with a relay to prove the fault.

thinking back the issue was there before anything was replaced and its what initially made me start replacing coil packs and everything else,

my next step is looking for a vacuum leak as that is very possible

  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe try resetting your ECU to see if it improves anything? As after reset, your ECU will be learning all the new parts you've replaced with?

Or just do a search on SAU on how to reset ECU, it can be done by putting a wire through 2 ports in the consult plug, saves you from disconnecting battery and having to set the radio again

so after all that chasing i just put 20ml of ignition cleaner in to 3/4 a tank and immediately as soon as i left the petty station i noticed the problem was gone, took it for a good drive and noticed nothing wrong and gave it a little rev in the driveway to see if it was jumping like before and nope clean revs all the way through!

im still unsure of why it was so instant, wouldn't it take a bit of driving to remove build up ect?

hopefully the problem doesn't return, im still going to reset the ecu and ill daily drive it for now just to see how it goes

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

  • 2 weeks later...

The ecu fixed itself - it learned what the problem was and it was happy. Then you reset it. Now it is sad again. Needs more hugs.

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

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