Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I been doing some research and I figured that i should get a front brace,

My car power and what its sitting on in breif---

Power (Conservative_330awkw)

Slight camber

18x10 On 265 tyres

..

But before i make my move, I just want to ask is there a real difference in $60-$100 (steel or Alloy) compare to $100-200 (steel or alloy)

I am thinking to myself what can a 200 brace do that a 70 brace cant.. i think this is just one of those things that cost more because of the brand ONLY..

Whats your thoughtss???.. I dont really have a clue about these type of things

Edited by GTRAAH

You just gotta like the look of it and it fits. Paying more or less is a furphy, in most instances.

You can get a 2nd hand named brand like Cusco for $100 or less.

-> Yes there is structural integrity, strength, design, adjustable etc to consider.

Edit.

I had a Cusco strut brace and it did the job. I liked the HKS Kansai which also does the job and looks great.

$100 v $550.

Edited by Sinista32

^^^ LOL :) I seriously recon if it doesn't brake then anything will do, its only to make it rigid.. I mean i read about what it does and seems like anything that will hold , will do the job

What do you think about this one?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16630&cat=394&page=1

I like the look matched the colours and this shoulld be a perfect fit... And to top it off Awesome cheap for a brand new product

Edited by GTRAAH

Whats that LOL please show me pics or links :)

SHould I get rear strut brace aswell? If so where would it sit? Boot? Waste of room that is, my Sub is in there

Edited by GTRAAH

If Skylines had struts then they would need strut braces. But they do not have struts. The upper suspension arms are bolted to the chassis much lower down than the top of the suspension towers, and as such there is much less effect of teh movement of the tower tops on suspension angles.

Sure, adding a brace may stiffen the front of the car up a little bit, but the amount of benefit available from it is much much smaller than it is on a car with Mac struts.

Furthermore, strut braces that have pivoting joints at the ends and do not triangulate to the firewall are not really what you would call a quality engineering design. What you end up with is a parallelogram (actually, it's probably a trapezoid). The top is the brace, the bottom is the subframe and the sides are the strut towers. Any shape with 4 sides has very little resistance to deformation. Without a diagonal or two, you can easily push one side about relative to the opposite side. Sure, putting the brace in at least closes the square so that the top two corners have to move together, but they still move. Triangulation is the key to good stiffness, and strut braces generally DO NOT OFFER ANY.

PLUS....any bar that has bends near the ends so that it can clear up over the engine is going to need to be made out of something really stiff so that it doesn't just deform itself as the loads are put into its ends. As such, the little alloy round and oval cross section ones are probably toys compared to the big multi member and multichamber extruded ones.

I guess its preference why some ppl have them and some dont. Must do something positive the the N1 come stock with them ....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ULTRA-RACING-1-PIECE-STEEL-REAR-STRUT-TOWER-BAR-BRACE-89-91-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-/160983771496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257b616968&_uhb=1

Heres an explanation I found easy to understand if you scroll down before/after Its not much but for track enthusiasts will help.. I would like to hear if people have really felt any difference with them in or out

Of course people feel difference with them. Even if there is no difference you will always "feel" a difference to provide you with a warm glow so you don't think you wasted your money.

I have no doubt that a lot of body wobble and so on is removed from running one. I just maintain that on a car where the position of the upper suspension mounts is not really affected by how much the top of the towers can wander around, there can be little real effect on the REAL handling of the car.

The situation would be doubly more so at the rear of the car, where all of the suspension is completely separate from the body, yet people still want to fit strut bars back there. And, yes, Nissan did also put them there. But I can bet you that they only did it because the market expected it. And if the body wobble is decreased, it does add to the feeling that it does something for the handling, even if it doesn't.

So, why exactly do you think you need a strut brace? Do you have the best / optimum springs? Do you have the best / optimum shock absorbers? Do you have the best / optimum anti-roll bars? Have you got the best / optimum weight balance / distribution on the chassis? Are you chasing the last 1000th of a second lap time on the race track?

A strut brace should be the very last thing you want / need to improve the handling of you car.

(That said, yes I have a strut brace fitted to my 32 GTS4. But I doubt I could tell the difference if I removed it)

i've bent those rectangle cusco style braces by hand before, cheap steel braces will work well long as its tubular/ braced.

my n*power brace works, i can tell the difference with out it ( ceffy ) although the bracket where the billet pipe bolts on has lil bit of flex

also dont see why every one thinks they need a brace just because they have more power then factory?

it stiffens up the front chassis for better cornering...

Edited by Dan_J

 

i've bent those rectangle cusco style braces by hand before, cheap steel braces will work well long as its tubular/ braced.

my n*power brace works, i can tell the difference with out it ( ceffy ) although the bracket where the billet pipe bolts on has lil bit of flex

also dont see why every one thinks they need a brace just because they have more power then factory?

it stiffens up the front chassis for better cornering...

 

Cefiro has struts, no? S chassis cars also have struts. Skylines do not.

ferfuxaske.

Paul, I have done already! :) Control arms are practically levelled out now , I had to raise it Because I have 18s X10 running :) But the car looks nice height still, its an illusion but because of the larger rims. Looks perfect!!

Anyways...ppl

I just thought its better for your car not to twist in places it shouldn't thats pretty much why i asked.. Its more for pretecting the chassis, every little bit helps id think... Its not like im going to spend thousands, its not expensive and even if $100 is going to do a tiny bit off difference I might aswell..

Afterall isn't it better for your chassis not to twist, even slightly ? So years in bit of twisting here and there couldn't be that good for the chassis.

Edited by GTRAAH

   

Cefiro has struts, no? S chassis cars also have struts. Skylines do not.

ferfuxaske.

i know this, thats why i stated ceffy not to confuse those although the front r32 uprights do bolt up to the strut tower walls so go figure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...