Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm no economist but only trying to join some dots, am I...

Q Why are ex-gov't vehicles these days consisting of Renaults, Peugeots, Hyundais as well as Fords, Camrys & Holdens?

Q If Renaults, Peugeots and Hyundais somehow get damaged, don't their replacement parts come from France and Korea?

Q Doesn't Australia have a parts industry for our Fords, Camrys and Holdens (not including Cruze-Daewoo)?

Q If Australian CommCars are Aussie made vehicles, then why can't other state gov't and local gov't vehicles be Aussie made too?

Q Extrapolating, why can't all vehicles be Aussie made when the purchasing officers of the following departments do their sums?

* Prisons

* Health workers

* Hospitals

* Pathology

* RTA/RMS

* Buses (now there's a new market)

* Trains (another new market)

* RailCorp

* Councils

* Police

* Judiciary

* Dept of Secondary and Primary Education

* Universities

etc etc etc

Q Am I on the right page here?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7027730
Share on other sites

I'm no economist but only trying to join some dots, am I...

Q Why are ex-gov't vehicles these days consisting of Renaults, Peugeots, Hyundais as well as Fords, Camrys & Holdens?

Q If Renaults, Peugeots and Hyundais somehow get damaged, don't their replacement parts come from France and Korea?

Q Doesn't Australia have a parts industry for our Fords, Camrys and Holdens (not including Cruze-Daewoo)?

Q If Australian CommCars are Aussie made vehicles, then why can't other state gov't and local gov't vehicles be Aussie made too?

Q Extrapolating, why can't all vehicles be Aussie made when the purchasing officers of the following departments do their sums?

* Prisons

* Health workers

* Hospitals

* Pathology

* RTA/RMS

* Buses (now there's a new market)

* Trains (another new market)

* RailCorp

* Councils

* Police

* Judiciary

* Dept of Secondary and Primary Education

* Universities

etc etc etc

Q Am I on the right page here?

This used to be the case but as part of the various Free Trade Agreements made under Howard (and pursued by Labor), these rules had to go. Forcing Government employees to purchase local is considered protectionism which is BAAAAAAAD apparently. Of course, we didn't, nay couldn't, force this upon our fellow FTA friends cause we don't have the bargaining power, but we'll happily let our industry die due to it. The US still have these rules in place as well as many other rules excluding Australian products from being imported as well as subsidies for their local industries, however this is apparently "Free Trade".

As for money for the car industry, it's a necessary evil. There are literally hundreds of thousands of people employed in the car industry chain. And on top of that we pay very little compared to pretty much every other country which manufacturers cars.

The next 6 months will be interesting. Abbott decried the money going to Ford and Holden as wasteful. Has he painted himself into a corner or will he simply bullshit his way out of it and hand them cash anyway?

Oh, and the point made earlier regarding Toyota, Ford, Holden and Toyota share many components made locally. Those component manufacturers can only continue manufacturing as long as the volume is high enough. Take Holden out of the picture and many of those companies won't be able to survive based on Toyota volumes alone so they go to the wall meaning Toyota can no longer source parts locally leaving them high and dry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7027826
Share on other sites

Yes, we'll adding insult to injury 10mins ago, there's a Police Peugeot on the M4

Number plate CHRSCO

Diamond Creek police have a brand new black marked Chrysler 300c SRT as a chase vehicle.

Edited by Cowboy1600
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7027916
Share on other sites

I'm no economist but only trying to join some dots, am I...

Q Why are ex-gov't vehicles these days consisting of Renaults, Peugeots, Hyundais as well as Fords, Camrys & Holdens?

Q If Renaults, Peugeots and Hyundais somehow get damaged, don't their replacement parts come from France and Korea?

Q Doesn't Australia have a parts industry for our Fords, Camrys and Holdens (not including Cruze-Daewoo)?

Q If Australian CommCars are Aussie made vehicles, then why can't other state gov't and local gov't vehicles be Aussie made too?

Q Extrapolating, why can't all vehicles be Aussie made when the purchasing officers of the following departments do their sums?

* Prisons

* Health workers

* Hospitals

* Pathology

* RTA/RMS

* Buses (now there's a new market)

* Trains (another new market)

* RailCorp

* Councils

* Police

* Judiciary

* Dept of Secondary and Primary Education

* Universities

etc etc etc

Q Am I on the right page here?

Maybe Australia needs to start making more smaller and economical vehicles on-par or better than the overseas manufacturers. I think Holden make the Cruze locally - but I guess there is a stigma that its roots are Korean.

I'm sure most reason why these government agencies choose international is because they can offer cars that do not depreciate fast (via the leasing company) and are good on fuel.

On a side note - If Holden/Toyota sold an economical turbo charged 1.6L to 2L RWD cars with handling to match and the size of a Corolla - it can easily capture the interests of motoring enthusiasts around the world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7028910
Share on other sites

As far as Toyota goes the Australian cent is almost equal to the yen now (ie AUD$ is very expensive) so if Holden were to stop producing and component makers in Australia increased their prices there would be a lot of pressure on Toyota to just import all cars from Japan etc. On the other side of the coin the high dollar means Australia could import engines for cheaper - VL for the 21st century sounds like heaven to me :D

As far as producing a 1.6L-2.0L turbo car goes I think that is a pretty crowded niche with a limited market - admittedly RWD would make it unique but it would probably end up costing more than an AWD car from Europe or Japan and much more than an FT86. I think Holden have a good niche with the Commodore, being able to sell it overseas and using it as a base for other GM RWD cars. If only they could get an electric/hybrid etc powered one developed and get rego/tax subsidies for owners in Australia (as Japanese EVs/hybrids get in Japan) then it would be great - but I guess that probably doesn't fit in with GMs global plan - Volt etc).

Edited by *LOACH*
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7029133
Share on other sites

On a side note - If Holden/Toyota sold an economical turbo charged 1.6L to 2L RWD cars with handling to match and the size of a Corolla - it can easily capture the interests of motoring enthusiasts around the world.

2L turbo rear wheel drive. I don't know why Hyundai isn't pushing this here.

hyundai-genesis-coupe-3-big.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7029374
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

if 100yen to the dollar, aus dollar is good return since the yen is really high. Its not 1 yen to the dollar, its 100yen to the dollar.

If there is only one buyer for goods and lots of goods, then the power lies with the buyer, not the seller, which means that if toyota was alone it could command whatever price it wanted, with only a few players, ref they only assemble here, they don't manufacture anyway, they still command the price they want anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7051744
Share on other sites

if 100yen to the dollar, aus dollar is good return since the yen is really high. Its not 1 yen to the dollar, its 100yen to the dollar.

If there is only one buyer for goods and lots of goods, then the power lies with the buyer, not the seller, which means that if toyota was alone it could command whatever price it wanted, with only a few players, ref they only assemble here, they don't manufacture anyway, they still command the price they want anyway.

Is this post directed at me? If so you will note that in my post I said that "the Australian cent is almost equal to the yen now". Note Australian CENT not dollar.

In addition I don't understand your supply and demand point. Do you mean Toyota as buyer, if it were to be the only manufacturer in Australia, would be able to dictate prices to parts manufacturers? Or do you mean Toyota as seller, if it were to be the only manufacturer in Australia, would be able to price cars however they wanted? I don't think either of these points are valid.

Edited by *LOACH*
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7052446
Share on other sites

Shut Holden and use the money for one out of a million and one better things than bailing it out. What is to say that giving them the cash is going to sustain the company on the long run (10-15yrs)? Nothing. And what happens when they go broke again? Aussie cars are simly not as popular and as sought after as before. Jap and german are dominating and its not hard to see why. You get a lot of car for less money. Holden keep making rubbish everyday cars and their "performace" range is full of single cam terrible motors and vehicles. If they want to stay in business they should raise the cash, not tax payers, most of whom dont drive holdens and never will. Use the money for something else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7057210
Share on other sites

Q Extrapolating, why can't all vehicles be Aussie made when the purchasing officers of the following departments do their sums?

* Trains (another new market)

* RailCorp

I'll chime in with the only topic listed i know anything about...

even if an existing international company like Siemens brought production of national trains to Aus, it'd be way too expensive an exercise for a country with different rail networks (system voltages, comms, track width, sizes) that dont buy enough trains on a regular basis. I'm sure siemens already has technicians based out here who assemble and probably repair the trains. I think thats about as good as its going to get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428433-holden/page/2/#findComment-7065204
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...