Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why on earth would you want to run lower boost down low? That's heaps pointless.

hahaha sorry when i posted i was thinking if i did this mod then the solenoid would run 7psi down low instead of 5 but then the boost controller would run 12psi up high. I worded it all wrong. Im new to forced induction.

Make the auto transmission last longer is my guess.

Answer above :)

  • 2 months later...

what does high/low boost read on the stock guage?

as in what KG/CM2?

Stock reading as in x100mmHg (millimeter of mercury)

+7 on the gauge is about 13.5psi..

So 5psi would be about 1/3 of the gauge and 7 would be around half way?

Someone correct me if im wrong.

trying to work out what boost im running on the stage,

for some reason the prev owner installed an aftermarket guage which reads another random unit.

stock guage

IMAG2037_zps38b60c9f.jpg

aftermarket

IMAG2043_BURST009_zps636e2e30.jpg

so 0.6 is... 8.5psi?

does that sound right for high boost for a 25 neo?

Edited by GH05T

0.6 bar is 8.7psi, so yeah you have about8.5 as its a bit under 0.6.

and yes that sounds about ok. depending on variables/mods...

oh, and that aftermarket gauge is 'bar' which is pretty commonly used as well as psi.

Edited by Sklyn
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

ok fellas . read ALL this. am rebuilding an S1 R33 (don't know its history.? ) no boost actuator under bonnet ..? so bought one.. NOW I find out there is NO PLUG for this unit in the loom anywhere..??? SO...am thinking a "MBC" is the way to go..? ( I have a few sitting here ) but for the life of me cannot remember how to plug one in the system on a R33..? cannot seem to throw a pic up to show you NO PLUG..?

can a member give me a quick PIC please on where a mbc goes in these lines please..? and will ditch/remove the stock one being I can never get power to it :angry: ...!!!! all the best...nick .

OK. have "searched" this site and FOUND some answers.. :yes:

Edited by terryterry147
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I'm trying to do some detective work on what my cars previous owner got up to. I think he may have done this mod to my R34 GT-T, though it's kind of sloppy. In the attached photo, you can see the open wires.

Now, I have an aftermarket boost controller, meaning I should not have to worry about this variable boost. However, this is not my issue. I thought that I should cover up the open wires pictured, so i sprayed contact cleaner on them and wrapped them in electrical tape - first I taped the black wire, then i taped that tightly to the white wire.

However, I am now constantly blowing my tail light fuse (which includes dash lights and parkers). Could this possibly be related, and does the black wire need to be earthed?

Thanks!!

post-126851-0-30985000-1395115360_thumb.jpg

Cheers for the reply, I appreciate it

I would be looking at where the EBC is getting power from. ie in the dash / console area etc.

I've blown that fuse wiring things like gauges before.

I would be looking at where the EBC is getting power from. ie in the dash / console area etc.

I've blown that fuse wiring things like gauges before.

Sorry mate, but what was the EBC?

I've checked the tail lights, they are OK, now i start the long process of elimination. Apparently cigarette lighters are often the main culprit.

Electronic Boost Controller.

Lighter is often used to power gauges etc...

Of course, when i did the stereo install I do remember that it was taking power (or at least ignition/illumination) from there - what should i be looking out for?

  • 6 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...