Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Please, please, please post the results.

This is the greatest fear of all fresh engine rebuilds (apart from blowing up on first start!) so I personally would love to know what went wrong so we can all be more vigilant in certain areas when building our engines.

Hopefully it's something simple like oil surge from a lack of baffling in the sump or something like that.

Best of luck with finding the cause. Even worse than than the result is not finding something that categorically caused the fault, leading to having to rebuild it and hope for the best....

Not sure. The pan is baffled with external pickup on a tomei pump modified for external pickup. I might go back to internal pickup since this happened anyway.

could there be a possible air leak in the external pickup to the pump or where it connects to the pump

I've done an external pickup on my 26/30 as well and went to great lengths to make sure there are no possible leaks especially in the fittings

this is really just an idea for something to look at, the external pickup IMO is a better way to do it on a rb2630

I had the same thing happen in my freshly built 26. I was driving one day and bounced off the limiter a couple of times in the wet but I didn't really think much of it, I'm guessing the crank may have had some starvation at this point though.

Started the car about 2 weeks later and it spun a bearing in the driveway.

When the engine was stripped it turned out the bearing clearances weren't correct.

  • 2 weeks later...
Just going to put it back together and blow it up.


9510894277_341982fe76_b.jpg


Here I am deburring the block. I should have took more pics of this before. As far as castings go it was pretty flaky. I the corner you could drag a pick over it and get shavings/casting grit, whatever you want to call it to come off.


9513685876_d8a4858132_b.jpg


9513688382_a9f26e8b7a_b.jpg


9510900195_2a86aa85b4_b.jpg


Mains back together, everthing was mixed down to the tens of thousands and confirmed by plastiguage, just to be sure.


9513690574_1ec3f53a9c_b.jpg


2-5 rods back in, kept number 6 out so i could balance the new rod to the old ones. The new rod was 4 grams heavier. Now its 0 grams heavier. Builders typically call within 4 grams "Balanced".


9510902747_e85696bff0_b.jpg



Quick laugh using my "Specialty" dead blow. Kind of Ironic looking.

9513692992_05219a0204_b.jpg


Number one after 20+ mic jobs by me and double checked by 4 other machinist. we found 2 tenths of a thousdanth of taper that was it. no out of round or anything.


9513694088_fe924dbf45_b.jpg


This was the loosest. Everything elese was .00018 vs .00020, which is really what i would rather see on all of them with this big ass tomei oil pump.


Number 1 rod was plastigauged every 45 degrees of rotation too, cause why not...

9510905547_140e6d6d2d_b.jpg


All ring gaps where checked while at it. All good.


9513696206_b5313deec7_b.jpg

Ha ha, awesome deadblow. That's dedication, getting you're own hammer made! Joke.....

Like I said before, it sucks when there's no clear cut reason for the failure....

I'd definately look at your oil supply while it's out. I can't remember if you mentioned about an aftermarket sump baffle? Definately put one in if you haven't.

did you end up cleaning the block thouroughly before putting it back together to remove any bearing remains etc from oil galleries

this.

also, clean the galleries in the crank?

is it grub screwed so you can clean it?

as I was saying in my first post in this thread, looks like there was something in the crank galleries to the first rod.

The remaining damage looks to be from that initial damage.

if the crank wasnt cleaned properly, it may have had some remnants that stopped the oil flow.

also, nice tool box.

Robbie doesnt use them on the 1400hp engines he runs either, im sure they are an option, but im not pumping huge power. Yes i have a trap door and all that in the oil pan, ill try to post a picture later.

Yes i took the crank out and polished it and hot tanked the block then when it came back i went through it quite well myself too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...