Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well when I first got the AEM, BEFORE I had any suspicions about it's accuracy, my tuner actually commented about how accurate it was. Said it read dead on exactly the same as his. I'm only suspicious now because of how rich it reads, but that could well be my tune.

i'm sold, techedge it is

http://wbo2.com/2j/2j9.htm

So all i need is 2J9 + cables + sensor? (17123)

Yup.

it is a good idea to grab a LX1 display to go with it if you can afford it. that way you can be sure the input settings are correct in the software on your ecu because you can compare it with the external display, also if the car leans out when your into it you can see it on the fly.

I got this depo gauge...seems all right has Bosch sensor..

Started reading lean, turns out my fuel filter needed replacing...replaced fuel filter now wideband reads error...tried to calibrate it but no response.. :unsure:

Pretty sure sensor is still fine , if unit is dead can I just get the techedge so I can link it to my adaptronic?

start again and get a new sensor with the TE. peace of mind is a good thing and they are not very expensive anyway.

I am pretty sure depo is a china brand.

Not sure, Says Japan on their site, was about the same price as AEM so figured it was an entry level unit...hopefully I can get it up and running again..its a cool little gauge but can't find the instruction booklet to figure out why the error code...

  • 2 weeks later...

Good timing for this thread to pop up... I'd just decided to drop some coin on a wide band unit that I'll have wired in permanently, when I noticed this thread.

I had my eye on a Koso unit from the states, but after reading Guilt-Toy's advice I think I'll go for an 2J9 Tech Edge unit with LX1 display.

Edited by Ryno

Crunch the numbers and find the price difference between the 2J and the 3A models, remember the techedge site doesn't quote gst, the initial pain to your wallet will soon pass and it's much cheaper to buy right the first time.

just curious on why people prefer the tech edge over all in one units such as AEM UEGO, Innovate MTX-L, LC-1, PLX?

Is it because it uses the BOSCH LSU 4.9 sensor instead of the LSU 4.2 sensor?

I bought mine mainly on reputation, a few of the tuners I've spoken to use them, and have told me the people who design and build them know their shit and they are built to a standard not a price. As for the all-in-one gauge and driver, I would have liked a gauge but this was only a secondary consideration, accuracy and quality took priority, after all this is a tuning tool not another dial to rice up my dash. Also the driver will accept uego and multiple bosch sensors.

Mike.

Edited by Missileman

^ fair enough, I don't use widebands to rice up my dash either. I've always used all in one units to street tune my car and my friend's cars, one thing I've notice is that there's always a little lag time between the pedal being depressed vs. the readout from the widebands I've used.

I posted the nistune graph in your other thread and you saw how little lag there was when I jumped off the throttle at 60, about 1/3 of second lag, and that was at minimal gas flow. I believe the techedge gauges would read at the same speed/lag as nistune.

bosch 4.9 mounted before the cat

Edited by Missileman

See how we go :)

I've recently just installed a AEM UEGO gauge on my mate's S15 just right before the cat (japanese downpipe already had a pre welded bung). I'm plugging up his Nistune either this weekend, just waiting to see if his missus will let him out for a day haha

ok....reasons im getting an error or code "03" (as it appears on my unit)...have tried to recalibrate but pushing its button does nothing....

bosch sensor has barely 3000km on it...originally had this problem with not getting enough power, but I fixed this when I rewired it...unit is getting 12v or thereabout and it was working fine until I changed a fuel filter, I also drained the tank a few times...none of which should have any effect on the wideband I thought...i did have it running too rich for a while, have fixed that... pulled sensor out and looks clean...

Anyone got any ideas here, I'm stumped ?

  • 5 weeks later...

Have you check if the O2 sensor is heating up?

ok....reasons im getting an error or code "03" (as it appears on my unit)...have tried to recalibrate but pushing its button does nothing....

bosch sensor has barely 3000km on it...originally had this problem with not getting enough power, but I fixed this when I rewired it...unit is getting 12v or thereabout and it was working fine until I changed a fuel filter, I also drained the tank a few times...none of which should have any effect on the wideband I thought...i did have it running too rich for a while, have fixed that... pulled sensor out and looks clean...

Anyone got any ideas here, I'm stumped ?

this, i have a faulty unit and even though the voltage was being sent to the sensor it would not heat up. you can light a cigarette if it works =p

Take the sensor out of the exhaust and feel it. If it gets hot quickly it is working. Careful you don't burn yourself...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...