Jump to content
SAU Community

Who's Running A Wideband And What Are You Using?


Recommended Posts

I upgraded my firmware to 1.17 and switched the sensor over to 4.9. It lasted about 3 months and died.

Also, innovate says that if you unplug the sensor while the control box is powered it will kill the control box.

They finally emailed me back for a repair and gave me an RMA number.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using an mtxl for 10 months now. No issues so far but by the sounds of it, I should start saving for a replacement. I shall return to this thread for a rant when it happens. Lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Mafia that's what i thought too. .. I heard wb o2 sensors should be further down. At least for the sensors to not fail quickly. .. I was also thinking to install mine at the turbo dump pipe but i think I should install nearer to the cat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive been running an MTXL for about 18 months and 20k kms. Still running fine as far as I can tell, the gauge is very responsive.

As above, it connects digitally to the adaptronic ECU, and is recommended by adaptronic themselves. That was a simple enough choice for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So are all the installations a new bung welded at least 1 metre downstream in the exhaust? Is the sensor tip pointing downwards as much as possible? On the stagea at least it narrowed it down to only 1 location: just before the cat (almost at the flange of the dump pipe) pointing up into the cavity.

There's also the sensor type. The MTXL seems to be upgradable to the LSU 4.9 sensor. Im just running a 4.2 sensor and it works fine for me. Im going by the principle of "if it aint broke don't fix it".

Those are some things to try before writing off the unit. Maybe there is an internal design fault. It does combine sensitive microcontrollers with high current capability, that's always a fun mix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...